Erstbegehungen, 8C-Boulder, 9b-Routen: Die wichtigsten Kletternews der letzten Wochen im Überblick. Dabei: Leon Fraunholz, Drew Ruana, Monique Forestier, Seb Bouin, Jonas Winter und viele mehr.
Hier liefern wir wieder einen Überblick über die neuesten Erstbegehungen, krassesten Boulder und härtesten Linien. Wer die letzte Ausgabe verpasst hat, kann sich h ier die letzten Kletternews von 2020
Cédric Lachat (CH) klettert Joe mama (9a/+) in Oliana (ES)
Erstbegehung: Drew Ruana (US) klettert Pegasus (V15) in Joe’s Valley (US)...
... und Sleepwalker (V16)...
... und The Nest (V15)
Will Bosi (GB) klettert La Capella (9b) in Siurana (ES)
Der aus Edinburgh stammende Will (21) konnte bereits mehrere 9a-Routen klettern: 2018 konnte er in Malham Rainshadow und die berühmte Hubble am Raven Tor klettern. Außerdem gelang ihm die erste Wiederholung von Malcolm Smith's Hunger in Anvil, Loch Goil.
Archiv Bosi
Will Bosi klettert sowohl am Fels als auch am Plastik auf hohem Niveau
Martin Keller (CH) klettert Riot Act low (Fb 8C) im Frankenjura (DE)
Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert Vecchio Leone (Fb 8B) in Brione (CH)
Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni klettert Simple Man (8c) in Bavona (CH)
Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert Smoke Wagon Project (9a)
Seb Bouin (FR) klettert Joe Mama (9a+) in Oliana (ES)...
Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an
Back in business ! Joe Mama 9a(+) ✔️ After a break and a lot of volume / easy route it was time to be back in harder route. It sometimes hard to train and try projects in the same time. You can feel week and tired some days. But it's my way of training, and I like it. Yesterday was a great day with a lot of sharing at the crag. We sent Joe Mama together with @cedriclachat . It's fun to try a route with someone else. I always try projects alone, and yeah, it's more funny to share the passion 😁. Then I decided to "check" the holds of La dura dura 9b+. It was the perfect time because @chris_sharma was here trying Le Blond (in the video). I had the perfect betas, yet it was not possible to figurate the hard moves (after 30minutes in front of the holds 😅). I need to continue my training period to be back stronger 💪. This route is really powerful, and if I want to come back on it one day I have to improve my strength. But at the moment, I want to continue in "easier" routes around here. "Catxaca" 9a+ is the next one on the list. Let's go 😎 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ De retour aux affaires ! Joe Mama 9a(+) ✔️ Après une pause et reprise avec beaucoup de volume, il était temps de retourner dans des voies un peu plus dures. C'est parfois compliqué de s'entraîner et essayer des projets. On peut parfois se sentir fatigué et faible. Mais c'est plus rigolo de faire cela en allant essayer des voies. C'est la façon de faire. Hier était une journée pleine d'échange à la falaise. Nous avons enchaîné Joe Mama avec @cedriclachat . C'est quand même plus fun de partager sa passion quand on essaye une voie. Après cela j'ai décidé de "checker" les prises de la dura dura 9b+. C'était la journée parfaite pour cela car @chris_sharma était présent pour essayer Le blond (sur la vidéo). Malheureusement, même avec les méthodes de Chris, je n'ai pas réussi à bouger dans cette voie. Il faut que je continue ma remise en forme, et que je revienne un jour avec de la force 😅. Pour le moment le plan c'est de continuer dans des voies "moins dures". Catxaca 9a+ est la prochaine sur la liste. En avant 😎. @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @kayland_official @amazonas_ultralight
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am Feb 8, 2020 um 3:00 PST
... und La Rage d’Adam (9b/+)...
... und Catxasa (9a/+)in Santa Linya (ES)
Loic Zehani (FR) klettert Teahupoo (9a)
Hugo Parmentier (FR) klettert Eagle-4 (9b) in St-Léger (FR)
Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert Casavino (Fb 8B+) in Brione (CH)...
... und Primitivo (Fb 8C)
Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert Suzu (V14) in Hinokage (JP)
Erstbegehung: Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Enkidu (Fb 8A+) im Tessin (CH)
Monique Forestier (AU) klettert Tiger Cat (33) in Blue Mountains (AU)
Giani Clément (CH) klettert Santoku (Fb 8B) im Tessin (CH)
Iker Pou (ES) klettert La Nave de los Locos (9a)
Alex Puccio (US) klettert Jeremiah (V12)
Camille Coudert (FR) klettert Traphouse du font (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)...
und The Big Island (Fb 8C)
Kazuma Ise (JP) klettert Byakudou (Fb 8C)
Fabi Buhl (DE) klettert Déjà (8c+, 10SL) im Rätikon (CH)
Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an
The last fall my mind was occupied by Déjà a 10 pitch route in #raetikon . Not only this year, it is a project that started for me 4 years a go via a hint from @kammerlander_beat and @michi_wyser I checked it out alone and then invited @jacopolarcher to try a bit with me over the first 2 seasons. We found a good part of the beta but realised that the crux is difficult and super condition dependent. Soon it was clear that it is possible, I went back sometimes with friends sometimes alone, just to play and find the smallest little details of my beta. I made nightsessions during summer just beacuse I wanted to climb at least some moves. This year was different, after coming back from Peru, I really focused all my energy into training. As soon as I felt in shape, I invested all into the route. @melissaleneve kicked my lazy alpine climbing ass and helped me with her motivation to train and climb more then I have since a while! Unfortunately I got quite late in good enough shape but then I went all in. From the 6th October my mind was fully occupied by this beautiful piece of route from Andres & Michi! With each day that passed, I felt closer and closer. But the crux remained unclimbed. All the sudden the winter was rolling in, I will always remember admitting to Mél while we where waking up in a snowy and frosty car, that this might be to cold, even for me to climb🙈 From that point onwards It got super difficult to find belayers and the weather was really getting worse. Nonetheless Andres was always there and battled the conditions as hard as me, just to support me and finish his 27 year old story with this route! In the end I climbed all of the 10 pitches first try, during surreal 5 hours of climbing! Never would I have dared to climb it in such a perfect flow. Thanks @melissaleneve @andreslietha @h_zak1965 @f.sattelberger @raphaela.haug @maxiknapp and Andi for all the support, without you Déjà 8c+ would not have been possible! Thanks also for @adidasterrex and @petzl_official for supporting the shooting, so you guys can have a glimpse into it! 👌 Thanks @stefanschlumpf for the killer shot ( studying made him the official #masteroflight )
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Fabi Buhl (@fabi_buhl) am Jan 21, 2020 um 9:53 PST
Erstbegehung: Siebe Vanhee (BE), Max Didier (CL) und Ian Siadak (US) klettern Jardines de Piedras (7b+/A2) in Cochamo, Chile
Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an
* “Jardines de Piedras” - First Ascent on ‘Cerro la Sombra’ in Valle la Luz, Cochamó. * At the end of our stay in Cochamó our desire to climb a virgin wall and mountain was high. Valle la Luz (where Capicua is situated) is wild and full of rock. Max Didier, Ian Siadak and I walked into the valley passed Cerro Capicua and scouted some walls from the river. It didn’t take us long to decide the unnamed and unclimbed peak North of Capicua would be a great objective. From the valley river, a few hours of dense and vertical jungle, up's and downs, we found what we called the Japanese rock gardens. An amazing 20 square meter platform surrounded by cascades, pools and flowers. One of the best bivouac spots the three of us had ever seen. The next day we managed to climb “Jardines de Piedras”, 7b+/A2, 16 pitches in 16 hours. Although the start of the wall looked easy, the ledge systems alternated with interesting vertical and technical climbing. At the 4th pitch I got challenged by a very thin crack in a dihedral. The first 30 meters went all free at 7b+, unfortunately the next 30 meters where very dirty, more steep and I was obliged to aid through. Approximately A2 cause of the technical piton placements. In the middle of the wall we chose the main dihedral (3 pitches) which brought us up to the lip of the wall. The dihedral went almost all free except for a few dirty and wet meters. From the lip, where you think the climbing would get more easy and is almost over, there is still 6 pitches to the summit. Pitch 11 was a big challenge with some slab run-outs and a steep flared and dirty crack. A few slab-pitches higher we reached the summit. We called the route “Jardines de Piedras” (Gardens of Rock) referring to the surroundings of our basecamp, like the typical Japanese gardens. An amazing 3 day adventure shared in good company. Thanks Max and Ian for this climb! @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @totemmt @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk @klimclubhungariavzw
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am Feb 9, 2020 um 8:01 PST
... Siebe Vanhee klettert El Condor Pasa (8b/20 pitches) on Trinidad Central
Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an
* Three ascents of a kind * It doesn’t always happen but now it did. In only ten days in the valley I managed to make three ascents of a kind, but always with one higher goal => Free climbing! ⛰ First Free Ascent in one day of the aid climb “Sundance” 5.12a (7a+) A2+ , 22 Pitches, Trinidad. Together with local and extremely motivated climber @diegorampiketa I managed to make the first free ascent of this mythical aid climb put up in 1998 by G. Farquhar and S. Nadin(UK). The first and second aid pitches are steep and challenging, they took me both two tries to send. In 16 hours, with lot’s of strenuous, steep, weird climbing and tons of support and patience of my partner Diego we managed to reach the summit of Trinidad. Although this send was a huge fight and felt incredibly hard I would propose a grade of 7c for the crux pitch if it would be clean. But like it’s now, hard to protect and to use the cracks it could be easily 8a. In general, the whole climb is sustained and not a single pitch will let you breath properly! ⛰Second Free Ascent of “El Condor Pasa” (8b/20 pitches) on Trinidad Central. Together with Max Didier, in the beginning of January, we attempted what is supposed to be the hardest established free climb of Cochamó. This time we returned and in only 10 hours I could make the full free ascent. In the first try in the crux pitch a handhold broke. Racing with the sun I managed to sent the pitch in a quick second try and we continued to the summit, in the burning sun. Thanks @maxdidier_ for supporting me on the whole ascent, giving me the opportunity to make two lead tries in the 8b crux pitch, and congrats for all the good free climbing. ⛰First Ascent of an unclimbed wall and mountain 👉 “Jardines de Piedras”, 7b+/A2, 16 pitches. To make this trilogy complete, Max Didier, @iansiadak and myself made a first ascent of the peak we baptised ‘Cerro la Sombra’. Situated more North of Cerro Capicua and further into Valle de la Luz in Cochamó. The route is called “Gardens of Rock” referring to the typical Japanese gardens describing the amazing place of Cerro la Sombra. More info in a later post but the topo you can already find here!
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am Jan 26, 2020 um 7:44 PST
Bokassa's Fridge – Assassin Monkey and Man (Fb 8C) in Kochel (DE)
Erstbegehung: Moritz Welt (DE) klettert Greenhouse Academy (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)
Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington (CA), Quentin Roberts und Horacio Gratton klettern Marc-Andrés Visión am East Pillar des Torre Egger in Patagonien
Ragni di Lecco
