Harte Routen, schwere Boulder und Erstbegehungen: die wichtigsten Begehungen der letzten Wochen gibt's hier im Überblick. Dabei: Siebe Vanhee, Solveig Korherr, Kim Marschner und viele mehr.
The North Face
Siebe Vanhee klettert Orbayu (8c, 500m)
Am Samstag, den 25. Juli 2020, gelang dem belgischen Kletterer Siebe Vanhee der Durchstieg von Orbayu (8c, 500m) am Naranjo De Bulnes in Picos de Europa, Spanien.
Erstbegehung: Nathaniel Coleman (US) klettert The Grand Illusion (V16) in Little Cottonwood Canyon (US)
Laura Rogora (IT) klettert Ali hulk sit extension total (9b) in Rodellar (ES)
Seb Bouin (FR) klettert The Dream (9b) in Albanien
Chiara Hanke klettert Black is Basic (8c)
Kim Marschner (DE) klettert The Elder Statesman (11) im Frankenjura
Erstbegehung: Jorge Diaz-Rullo (ES) klettert La piedra agermanat (9a/+)...
... und die Erstbegehung Las meninas (9a/+) in Rodellar (ES)
Antoine Girard (FR) klettert Practice of the Wild (Fb 8B+/8C) im Magic Wood (CH)
Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert King of the Bongo (8c) am Rottachberg (DE)
Alex Waterhouse (GB) klettert Die Unendliche Geschichte (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood (CH)
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The Never Ending Story (8B+/V14) ✅ Happy to have strung together this life tick on a short 3 day excursion to Magic Wood. Before heading down to Switzerland, I was also able to take down The Last Rites (8c+) in the Frankenjura, so this week is definitely my most productive climbing week ever. Never Ending Story is a proper marker of my progression as a climber over the years. The full line is split into two parts around a “jug” in the middle, a power endurance 8A+/V12 compression testpiece on water polished slopers from the ground to the jug and then a 8A from the jug to the top with a powerful first move. On my first trip to the wood in 2016 I climbed my first crimpy 8Bs but couldn’t do either of the parts. I returned in 2018 and managed part 2 with some effort and sent part 1 after a whole session of falling on the last move. Last year, after sending New Base Line, I put a session of work into the full line but was a long way off the link. This year I returned to try and finish it off, but after 3 months of training on a head high board full of crimps I was worried that I would have no chance on the power-endurance sloper style. Fortunately, I was able to put it down on the first go of my second session after a mammoth 6 hour session the day before. 4 years ago this climb was impossible, and it felt like it would always be impossible. It was everything I was weak at. This is more proof to me that training really works, and the weaknesses that defined my climbing for years are starting to become strengths. It’s not a quick process, but with the right determination and commitment the change is inevitable. On to the next! Thanks to @fyfeeboywonder for the snap 👊
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alex Waterhouse (@waterhouseclimb) am Jul 19, 2020 um 9:38 PDT
Manon Hily (FR) klettert Dures limites (8c) in Céüse (FR)
James Pearson (GB) klettert Conde de Choc (9a) in Entraygues (FR)
Erstbegehung: Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert Panthera • 8B/+ in Flatanger (NO)
Piotr Schab (PO) klettert Practice of the Wild 8b+/c, New Base Line und mehr im Magic Wood (CH)
Alex Honnold & Tommy Caldwell klettern CDUL
Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert D Mouth (5.14d) in Rifle (US)
Carlo Traversi (US) klettert Creature from the Black Lagoon (V16)
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Creature from the Black Lagoon V16. Not really sure what to say about this one. The past few weeks have been busy, with not a ton of climbing and lots of ups and downs. After being forced to close @theboulderfield again due to a surge in COVID cases in California ☹️, I jumped in the car and headed to Colorado to join @marymeck who was already in the Front Range for work. I’ve been mostly laying low but getting up to RMNP a fair bit when time and weather allow. I’ve tried Creature a few days in the past, some short sessions, and it felt attainable but would require a lot of days and effort. Roof climbing isn’t typically my style, but I was looking forward to improving that aspect of my climbing, so I started trying Creature last week. First session went well, doing all the moves individually, but linking through the crux section felt almost impossible. Second session a few days later was some of the worst conditions I’ve experienced in Chaos. Hot and no moving air. No progress was made and the session ended quickly. Yesterday was my third session and although conditions were still not favorable I felt ok in the crux bit and started trying from the bottom. After a few goes falling midway through the crux I started feeling pretty tired and started packing up my things. A light breeze picked up even though it was still warm and I resolved to give it one last go. To my surprise I climbed all the way to the top. It was slightly anticlimactic and left me feeling more confused by the whole process than anything. Regardless I’m stoked to progress within the style. As for the grade, I really don’t know. I’m not climbing on enough things these days to give a good opinion. Video soon. As always, thanks to @blackdiamond, @fiveten_official and @frictionlabs for the support.
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) am Jul 25, 2020 um 4:08 PDT
Martin Keller (CH) klettert Ill Trill (Fb 8B) im Magig Wood (CH)
Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert die Camilotto Pellisier (8a+, 500m) in den Dolomiten (IT)
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"Camilotto Pellisier" (8a+, 500m) at Cima Grande North Face ✅ #dolomites . After a near miss of the onsight a month ago I came back yesterday. Super happy that I could climb all pitches free directly first go. Although I climbed all moves before, it felt equally hard. . The difficulties are concentrated at the first 6 pitches (7b+, 7c, 8a/+, 7c+, 7a, 7c+/8a), crowned with a few powerful moves over the lip of an exposed roof in the last pitch. Afterwards there are several more pitches to the summit, but much easier. . @dmm_wales @scarpa_de @kletterretter @neprosport . #climbing #klettern #climb #rockclimbing #climbingisbliss #climbing_pictures_on_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #outdoors #rock #climbnowworklater #noplacetoofar #alpine #alpinklettern #multipitch #mehrseillänge #alps #berge #bergsteigen #mountains
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Dauser (@thdauser) am Aug 2, 2020 um 1:26 PDT
Moritz Perwitzschky (DE) klettert Memento (Fb 8B+) in der Silvretta (AT)
Alex Puccio klettert Reverse Logic (V14)...
Drew Ruana (US) klettert Box Therapy (V16) im Rocky Mountain National Park (US)
Ella Adamovska (CZ) klettert Insomnia 8c in Harmanec (CZ)
Lukas Mayerhofer (AT) klettert More Shining (FB 8B) in der Silvretta (AT)
Brooke Raboutou (US) klettert Doppelgänger Poltergeist und Wheel of Chaos (beide V13)
Jose Luis Palao klettert Apocalipsis de la Gioconda (9a+/b)
Dylan Chuat (CH) klettert La prophétie des grenouilles (9a) in Argentière (FR)
Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert Jack’s broken Heart (Fb 8A+) in Magic Wood (CH)
Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert Orca (9a) am Schleier (AT)
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Schleier Wasserfall is one of my all-time favourite crags. It sits high above the valley in the picturesque landscape under monumental cliffs of Wilder Kaiser. It is also home to most of the hardest first ascents by Alex Huber @alexander_huberbuam . Alex put up a few routes that belonged to the very hardest at that time. Om 9a (world’s second ot third 9a, depending on Hubble) in Berchtesgaden FA in 1992 (the only repetition by me in 2009) Weisse Rose 9a in Schleier Wasserfall FA in 1994 (repetition by me in 2009, 2nd repetition by @jakob.schubert this year) Open Air (original grade 9a) 9a+ in Schleier Wasserfall FA in 1996 (the only repetition by me in 2008) In 2001, Alex put up Orca 8c+ in the upper tier of Schleier. I tried it in 2008 and then 2009 and could not the crux move, that revolves around pulling from poor right hand pocket far into the distant jug (see photo of Alex). Alex recommended trying his project that goes from the same pocket to the right (my picture), adding quite a lot of hard climbing, but skipping the brutal move. I made the FA of this project calling it Fugu 9a in 2009, and later it was repeated by @roland_hemetzberger In 2017, I found myslef in Schleier again, I repeated another 9a called Mongo and same day we went to take a look again at Orca together with Roland. I found a new beta skipping this pocket and opting for left-hand almost non-existent hold instead. I could not send that day, but I finally returned last week and repeated this “last Alex’s unrepeated sport route” and suggesting an upgrade to 9a. It is possible that over the years, a few spikes might have crumbled inside the right-hand pocket making the Alex’s beta harder, on the other hand, kneepads allowed me to rest right underneath the crux in no-hand-rest. Props to Alex fo putting all these amazing routes and I encourage all strong guys to check his routes out. Especially Om and Weisse Rose are gems that deserve more attention! Photo of Michael Meisl from Fugu, Alex Huber in Orca 9a (his archive) @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @montura_official @mazagrande @gardatrentino
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) am Jul 23, 2020 um 3:41 PDT
Erstbegehung: Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert Phat Camp (5.14d)
Catherine Choong (CH) klettert Ultime demence (8a, 6 SL) im Verdon
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Ultime démence ✅ I’m really psyched to have sent all the pitches in a day last week! Situated in the Verdon Gorge, I chose this route because my friend @ninacaprez, who is a great source of inspiration, had recommended me to have a try on it. It's not too long, 6 pitches (7c+, 7c, 8a, 8a, 7c, 7c 150 meters) bolted by Laurent Triay, varied style including tufas, dihedral, sloppers, crimps, face climbing but overall overhanging. Nothing super hard in terms of grade but actually a big challenge for me ! I had to push my limits and climb my best to send every pitches in a day. I'm so happy to have a passion that has so many different facets, continue to challenge me in different way and to restart the process of learning new things even after 20 years of climbing. Many thanks to Julia and Jim for the good teamwork ! We had such a good time up there 😊 • • Photo @julia.cassou • • • • @mammut_swiss1862 @baechlibergsport @banquecantonaledujura @scarpaspa @louischevroletwatches @beelergates @hydroflask @smartwool @newrocksport @moser_design @climbingholds.shop
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Katherine Choong (@choongkatherine) am Aug 4, 2020 um 9:59 PDT
Erstbegehung: Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert Moon Landing (9a)
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MOON LANDING, First Ascent • The ultimate project of the last sector at Passo della Presolana! The full line following the pillar from the bottom! 65 movements on a perfect grey limestone ending with a heinous final traverse to the left, with a crazy sequence on small crimps and poor feet that requires a really good hip mobility! • When I visited this crag 3 years ago I instantly realized I would love it! Pockets, bouldery routes, good limestone were definitely what I was looking for. After climbing most of the brilliant routes put up by @bernardorivadossi and @_lucabana_ , I was very psyched for this project, but the first time I decided to check out the moves on the last traverse I really had no clue how to climb it and soon got cold feet, until last year when I found the solution that worked best for me! But the crux being the very last move certainly didn’t help and dealing with the pump when coming from the ground was definitely another story... After another six days of work this year and some slips and falls on the traverse, last saturday, with a cold breeze blowing, I could luckily perform my landing on the 🌒 • HUGE thanks to @_lucabana_ and @bernardorivadossi for bolting all these outstanding lines and giving me the chance to try! • Regarding the grade I go for 9a... Hard! Other lunar missions will be carried out🧑🚀 • @camp1889 @scarpaspa @dfsportspecialist @rockexperienceofficial @ragnidilecco @asd_ragnidilecco @skillsrls
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) am Jul 27, 2020 um 11:34 PDT
Matt Fultz (US) klettert Two Ton Skeleton (V14)
Kai Lightner gründet Climbing4Change
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It's finally here! After having consistent conversations with companies and aspiring allies about diversifying our industry, the consensus was clear; many wanted to create long term change, but few knew how. From volunteering and working with minority outreach programs throughout my career, I knew that many organizations existed that were dedicated to this cause. I didn’t want to create something that overshadowed other voices already doing the work; instead, I wanted to create something that uplifted all of our voices and gave opportunities to up and coming community leaders looking to create change in their own areas. Thus, Climbing for Change was born, an organization dedicated to gathering funds and partnering with businesses to provide funding and opportunities for DEI initiatives across our industry. From scholarship opportunities to facilitating connections, our goal is to assist underserved communities and create a more diverse and inclusive environment in the outdoors. However, this organization is dependent on business partnerships and individual donations to provide opportunities for others. If you are interested in donating, partnering, or learning more about our initiatives, visit our page @climbing4change and check out our website (in the bio). No contribution is too small. Thank you all for joining me on this journey ❤
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Kai Lightner (@kailightner) am Aug 3, 2020 um 6:02 PDT
