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Alfons Dornauer klettert Synergieeffekt 8c+ im Ötztal Michel Piccolruaz

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Starke Leistungen am Fels: Chiara Hanke klettert als erste deutsche Frau glatt 11 im Frankenjura. Weitere Erstbegehungen und beeindruckende Wiederholungen der letzten Wochen listen wir hier.

Chiara Hanke (DE) klettert Sever the wicked Hand (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Indian secret garden (FB 8B) in Albarracin (ES)

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Yesterday i could finish the Indian secret garden 8b in allbaracin, a beautyfull power endurance problem by @corechristian . Hard to find good conditions here in spain with the summer arriving, but in shady place like this with a bit of wind and big breaks inbetween gos to cool down your body it wotks. Patience is one of the biggest challenges for me. Without looking at the clock i would give gos every 5 minutes because it feels like an hour when you are really motivated to try your project. Muchas gracias cabron @miquelet_navarro got the pic and the psyche !!! #liveclimbrepeat #chalkmatters #scarpa #climbing_pictures_of_instagramm #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing #neandergrips #albarracin #toehook

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonas Winter (@climb_to_heaven) am

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert Battle Cat (8c) im Frankenjura (DE)

Moritz Welt klettert More Shining (Fb 8B) in der Silvretta

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Perfect week in #silvretta with perfect company, amazing conditions and beautiful boulders! One of my new favorite areas🌻 Here is a short ticklist of 5 days bouldering💪: More Shining 8B Rombuk 8A+ Zimalis Alexandra 8A+ Harakiri 8A+ Sucker Royal 8A+ Gringo ist sauer 8A/+ FA King of Nothing 8A/+ (📸:Harald Röker) British Airways 8A Niviuk 8A Flash High Society 7C+/8A Flash Sucker for Pain 8A Sucker for Gu 8A Bloodsucker 8A Diamond Nuts 8A Marabou full 7C+/8A Flash Shining 8A Video coming soon📽 @evolv_de @rafiki_climbing @cafekraft_nuernberg #klettern #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #frankenpower #bouldern #bouldering #holiday #silvapark #sendingtimes #mmmgh #werstelltderhält #hookschule #gringoistsauer #gusucks #mock #rodeln #evolvshoes #rafikiclothing #kraftchalk

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Moritz Welt (@moritzwelt_climbing) am

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (IT) klettert Blade Runner (Fb 8C) in RMNP (US)

... und Jade und Domestic Cat (beide V14) in RMNP (US)

… und Topaz (Fb 8B/+) in Wild Basin, RMNP (US)

Erstbegehung: Laura Rogora klettert Reveille-toi (9a) in Cueva

Alex Puccio (US) klettert Epochalypse (V13) am Flagstaff Mountain (US)

Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert Nihilist und El Gauhara (FB 8A+) in Ginzling (AT)

Erstbegehung: Seb Bouin (FR) klettert Beyond (Part 1) (9a/+)

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Beyond (Part 1) 9a/+ First Ascent ✅ Last Sunday I did the first part of my project in the Pic Saint Loup in France. This crag is amazing, it's a huge tufa overhanging wall on the top of the valley. This project Beyond is going straight up in the most overhanging part of the crag until the top (50 metters). There is a first Anchor. The first part (the one I did) is an incredible route. I was thinking the crux is almost impossible at the begining. It's almost roof climbing on bad crimps. After finding some micro betas for the first moves, I was missing the last hard move to go on a good tufa. I was thinking to give up until I found the tufa dyno. This move is incredible, you are falling on the crimps, and you have to jump on this tufa. This route will be for sure a hard classic of the Pic Saint Loup. About the grade it could be hard 9a, or 9a/+. Next repetitors will confirm it. About the second part of this route, there is a hard boulder problem straight after the first Anchor. After 4 goes in, I am still not able to do the moves… That's the First Ascent process 😁. During the last years I did hard FAs on this crag : Kmira 9a+, Legend 9a, and Beyond 9a/+. There routes are still unrepeated. I hope, one day, there will be some guys motivated by these world class routes. Pic by Raphael Fourau in Legend 9a FA More pictures and video are coming soon. Beyond (première partie) 9a/+ First Ascent ✅ Dimanche dernier j'ai réalisé la première partie de mon projet au Pic St Loup. Cette falaise est incroyable, c'est une baume déversante surplombant la vallée. Cette voie Beyond passe en plein milieu de la baume et rejoint le sommet 50 mètres plus haut. Il y a un relais intermédiaire. Cette voie sera pour sûr une classique dur du Pic Saint Loup. La première partie est incroyable, notemment de part le jeté sur colonette en fin de crux. A propos de la seconde partie , il y a un gros pas de bloc juste après le relais. Je n'ai toujours pas réussi les mouvements. C'est le FA processus 😁. Many thanks to support me in these project @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @altissimo_grabels @kayland_official @amazonas_ultralight @natureclimbing @climbskin @cc_grandpicsaintloup

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Seb Bouin klettert Move (9b) in Flatanger (NO)

Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert den Sitzstart zu Envy (V13) und schlägt V14/15 vor

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Finally sent the roof project today!! I tried this project for more than 10days. It took the most try this season. It was because there was a move that was not good for me. I did not expect to be able to climb honestly today. I thought I had to wait for the next season. However, I think that the opportunity for the weather has increased my concentration and motivation. I could not do it at all when I started trying, but I could learn once again if I could do it without giving up. This is a small problem, but what I got from this problem is great. I think it is probably V14 / 15 or so. It was difficult for me. The name has not been decided yet. 今日ついに里上でトライしていたルーフプロジェクトを完成させた。 正直今シーズンは登れないと思っていた。今日は日中暑かったが日が暮れると急激に気温が下がり、最高のコンディションだった。このプロジェクトは苦手な動きが出てきて自分には難しかった。やってれば出来るようになるもんだ。登れて嬉しい。グレードは良くわからないが5段くらいだと思う。たぶん。。

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dai Koyamada (@dai_koyamada) am

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert La grosse Tarlouze (Fb 8C) in Magic Wood (CH)

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At least there are some hard problems which are not crimpy. Everything was wet at home last Thursday, so I decided to go for a little one day trip to Magic Wood. I wanted to try the great endurance testpiece "La grosse Tarlouze" (8C). I`ve already tried this ~35 move monster a few times over the years. Last year I had only one session on it where I fell 4 times at the very end. This time, after falling twice at the very end again, I was lucky enough and after a hell of a fight I stood on top of this huge boulder. Special thanks to my dude @markuskoecheler for the huge support and for the pic. . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Swiss #Schweiz #klettern #MagicWood #Zillertal #Graubünden #Switzerland #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am

Sarah Kampf (DE) klettert Intercooler (8c) im Frankenjura

Babsi Zangerl (AT) & Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern Everything is Karate (5.14c/d) in Bishop (US)

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We had such a good time here in Bishop. „Everything Karate“ (5.14c/d) and this huge move on the very top was such a challenge to me. So happy I finally caught that one!! Staying here in this peaceful, wild canyon felt like being right where we wanted to be. Please help the @bishopclimbers and keep this place wild and clean! #liveclimbrepeat #teamsend •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Thanks so much to @benjaminbditto for joining us at the crag and capturing the moment!! Thanks to @ethan_pringle for the inspiration!!! And to @patrick_b_odonnell for bolting this proud line! •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @vibram @verivalbio @powerbar_europe @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am

Babsi Zangerl (AT) & Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern Father Time (5.13b, 20 SL) an der Middle Cathedral, Yosemite (US)

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Right in time at the (US) fathers day we sent “father time”. 4 days ago we went up to Leaning tower again and one more time we didn’t even get to climb. This time we didn’t want to wait and we decided to hop on to “father time” a 20pitch route from Mikey Schäfer on middle Cathedral. So it felt like running up and down for hours, also because we forgot our set of cams in the car. After our 5 a.m. alpine start we finally got to start climbing around 1 p.m. 🙈 The first tricky slab pitches were amazing. In the middle of the wall we ran into @warmewanderings and joined them at their camp. The day after we saw Amity working on the crux pitches, which was very impressive to watch. Those guys (Connor and Amity) told us it is their first ever big wall experience! So, we still not believe you guys!!! 😊 The following day it was our turn to get on the real bussines. And I have to say-> all of the three crux pitches felt very techy and hard to us...we definitely had to work on them before we could bring the puzzle together. And we ran out of food and water on day 3. So, I felt not good and was definitely ready to bail, after we got on the last hard pitch. Hungry and tired we rested for a while. Amity came up and delivered us some snacks, the best M&M mix I have ever had😊. So we decided to stay and give it a try. Surprisingly I got over the crux and found myself at the next belay! Jacopo was a bit unlucky at this day and slipped a couple of times on the smeary footholds! It got late and we were really tired -> pretty sure we will not make it this day. Then Amity and Connor (from one pitch below) were offering us a full treat of food for an extra day! So the game was on again!!! The day after Jacopo sent the pitch and we climbed up to the very top of the middle Cathedral. Thanks again @warmewanderings—> you made our day!!! #liveclimbrepeat ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @vibram @verivalbio @powerbar_europe @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am

Erstbegehung: Dave Graham (US) klettert Sarlacc (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

Erstbegehung: Isabelle Faus (US) klettert Goldrush (Fb 8B) in Pine Creek (US)

Erstbegehung: Aidan Roberts (GB) klettert Railway (Fb 8C) in Wild Basin, Rocky Mountain National Park (US)

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Railway-First Ascent- possibly 8c? Great 4 move boulder on small crimp rails I scouted at Wild Basin, learnt it was a project, and couldn't resist going yesterday and getting it done! The first move is without a doubt the crux and possibly the hardest move I've ever done on rock! The style suits me well, basic crimping, and this could well be my hardest climb to date. There's potential to keep the foot on for the first move if a little taller, time will tell the difficulty of it. I'm reluctant to grade it 8c as I have tried so few of this grade, though it feels significantly harder than any other 8b+ I've done so perhaps it could be logical. For now, the slash grade and I'll let some future climbers decide! Thanks @tchadx @fausey for putting us up and sorting us out with some ice bath recovery! On to new areas! 💪🏼 #neverstopexploring #noplacetoofar #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Aidan Roberts (@aidan.roberts98) am

Cédric Lachat (CH) klettert Sweet Neuf (9a+) im Vercors (FR)

Andreas Matuska (AT) klettert Air Mode (Fb 8B) in Maltaberg (AT)

Jimmy Webb (US) klettert The Finnish Line (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

.... und The Healing (V14), Erstbegehung

Michi Wohlleben (DE) klettert Speed integrale (9a) in Voralpsee (CH)

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„Speed integrale“ 9a ✅😍. When childhood dreams come true...I can’t describe what it means to me. Thx to everybody who helped me in this process! @jacopolarcher @nadinewallner @nemuel_feurle @leonie_venier @babsizangerl @jakobschweighofer @alex_scherl @romanberner @klausisele So much thx to my sponsors who left me free time to do what I want and look if the big leg running Alpinist can still climb 🙏. @adidasterrex @primaloft @scarpa_de @petzl_official @garmin_beatyesterday @frictionlabs @leki.ski.outdoor @pureathleten @therapierbar_vorarlberg @julbo_eyewear #climbing #first9a #voralpsee #alps #climber #klettern #adidasterrex #scarpaclimb #climbinglife #climbing_is_my_passion #bouldern #climbing_lovers #sportclimbing #switzerland #julboathlete #climb #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michi Wohlleben (@michiwohlleben) am

Nicholas Milburn (US) klettert Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)

… und The Reckoning (V14)

David Mason (GB) klettert Dandelion Mind (Fb 8B/+) im Peak District (GB)

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A few weeks ago I climbed one of my hardest boulders to date, Dandelion Mind (8B/+) at Badger Cove in the Peak District. This limestone problem was put up by Dan Varian in 2010 and features one of the most interesting, and at times infuriating, sequences that I have attempted. I had played on it a few years ago after climbing the neighbouring line, Bewilderness, but never figured the subtle body position needed to get the crucial knee to stay. This year I managed to do all the moves on my first session and left feeling pretty chuffed. For the next few sessions I battled hot and humid conditions, as well as split tips and wet fires but throughout the entire process I had fun. This is probably the first hard climb that I have done that I can honestly say I enjoyed every minute of it and that feels really liberating. Don’t get me wrong I did get frustrated, and impatient and nervous when I knew I could do it on any go but for once I quieted these feelings and focussed on what I had to do in order to make progress and, ultimately execute. I am sure that not all projects in the future will go this way but it’s nice to know that if the effort is put in I can learn to enjoy and overcome stressful situations. Check out the link in my profile for falls and fire offs before the send go. 📹: Ben Davison. @moonclimbing @unparallelup #ukbouldering #dandelionmind #badger #moonclimbing #unparallelup #pow

Ein Beitrag geteilt von David Mason (@davidmason85) am

Erstbegehung: Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert Manphibian (9a) in Mt. Charleston (US)

Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert The Guestlist (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

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The Guestlist • 8B

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

... und Speed of Sound (Fb 8B+)

... und Good Hope (Fb 8B)

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Good Hope • 8B ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ This one is situated perfectly on top of a hill, and probably has the longest hike in Rocklands. Knees are hurting and I’m pretty stoked this one is done after an unsuccessful session a couple of years ago. @andygullsten jumped on the send train on Good Hope, @jo.feder crushed Ceder Spine 7C+, and @nilsfavre fought his way up Armed Response 8A+ - epic day for the crew! This burger at De Kelder is gonna taste sooo good 🤤🍔 ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ 📸: @andygullsten

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

19.06.2019
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