Alfons Dornauer klettert Synergieeffekt 8c+ im Ötztal Michel Piccolruaz

Kletternews Juni 2019


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Starke Leistungen am Fels: Chiara Hanke klettert als erste deutsche Frau glatt 11 im Frankenjura. Weitere Erstbegehungen und beeindruckende Wiederholungen der letzten Wochen listen wir hier.

Chiara Hanke (DE) klettert Sever the wicked Hand (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Indian secret garden (FB 8B) in Albarracin (ES)

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert Battle Cat (8c) im Frankenjura (DE)

Moritz Welt klettert More Shining (Fb 8B) in der Silvretta

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (IT) klettert Blade Runner (Fb 8C) in RMNP (US)

... und Jade und Domestic Cat (beide V14) in RMNP (US)

… und Topaz (Fb 8B/+) in Wild Basin, RMNP (US)

Erstbegehung: Laura Rogora klettert Reveille-toi (9a) in Cueva

Alex Puccio (US) klettert Epochalypse (V13) am Flagstaff Mountain (US)

Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert Nihilist und El Gauhara (FB 8A+) in Ginzling (AT)

Erstbegehung: Seb Bouin (FR) klettert Beyond (Part 1) (9a/+)

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Beyond (Part 1) 9a/+ First Ascent ✅ Last Sunday I did the first part of my project in the Pic Saint Loup in France. This crag is amazing, it's a huge tufa overhanging wall on the top of the valley. This project Beyond is going straight up in the most overhanging part of the crag until the top (50 metters). There is a first Anchor. The first part (the one I did) is an incredible route. I was thinking the crux is almost impossible at the begining. It's almost roof climbing on bad crimps. After finding some micro betas for the first moves, I was missing the last hard move to go on a good tufa. I was thinking to give up until I found the tufa dyno. This move is incredible, you are falling on the crimps, and you have to jump on this tufa. This route will be for sure a hard classic of the Pic Saint Loup. About the grade it could be hard 9a, or 9a/+. Next repetitors will confirm it. About the second part of this route, there is a hard boulder problem straight after the first Anchor. After 4 goes in, I am still not able to do the moves… That's the First Ascent process 😁. During the last years I did hard FAs on this crag : Kmira 9a+, Legend 9a, and Beyond 9a/+. There routes are still unrepeated. I hope, one day, there will be some guys motivated by these world class routes. Pic by Raphael Fourau in Legend 9a FA More pictures and video are coming soon. Beyond (première partie) 9a/+ First Ascent ✅ Dimanche dernier j'ai réalisé la première partie de mon projet au Pic St Loup. Cette falaise est incroyable, c'est une baume déversante surplombant la vallée. Cette voie Beyond passe en plein milieu de la baume et rejoint le sommet 50 mètres plus haut. Il y a un relais intermédiaire. Cette voie sera pour sûr une classique dur du Pic Saint Loup. La première partie est incroyable, notemment de part le jeté sur colonette en fin de crux. A propos de la seconde partie , il y a un gros pas de bloc juste après le relais. Je n'ai toujours pas réussi les mouvements. C'est le FA processus 😁. Many thanks to support me in these project @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @altissimo_grabels @kayland_official @amazonas_ultralight @natureclimbing @climbskin @cc_grandpicsaintloup

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Seb Bouin klettert Move (9b) in Flatanger (NO)

Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert den Sitzstart zu Envy (V13) und schlägt V14/15 vor

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert La grosse Tarlouze (Fb 8C) in Magic Wood (CH)

Sarah Kampf (DE) klettert Intercooler (8c) im Frankenjura

Babsi Zangerl (AT) & Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern Everything is Karate (5.14c/d) in Bishop (US)

Babsi Zangerl (AT) & Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern Father Time (5.13b, 20 SL) an der Middle Cathedral, Yosemite (US)

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Right in time at the (US) fathers day we sent “father time”. 4 days ago we went up to Leaning tower again and one more time we didn’t even get to climb. This time we didn’t want to wait and we decided to hop on to “father time” a 20pitch route from Mikey Schäfer on middle Cathedral. So it felt like running up and down for hours, also because we forgot our set of cams in the car. After our 5 a.m. alpine start we finally got to start climbing around 1 p.m. 🙈 The first tricky slab pitches were amazing. In the middle of the wall we ran into @warmewanderings and joined them at their camp. The day after we saw Amity working on the crux pitches, which was very impressive to watch. Those guys (Connor and Amity) told us it is their first ever big wall experience! So, we still not believe you guys!!! 😊 The following day it was our turn to get on the real bussines. And I have to say-> all of the three crux pitches felt very techy and hard to us...we definitely had to work on them before we could bring the puzzle together. And we ran out of food and water on day 3. So, I felt not good and was definitely ready to bail, after we got on the last hard pitch. Hungry and tired we rested for a while. Amity came up and delivered us some snacks, the best M&M mix I have ever had😊. So we decided to stay and give it a try. Surprisingly I got over the crux and found myself at the next belay! Jacopo was a bit unlucky at this day and slipped a couple of times on the smeary footholds! It got late and we were really tired -> pretty sure we will not make it this day. Then Amity and Connor (from one pitch below) were offering us a full treat of food for an extra day! So the game was on again!!! The day after Jacopo sent the pitch and we climbed up to the very top of the middle Cathedral. Thanks again @warmewanderings—> you made our day!!! #liveclimbrepeat ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @vibram @verivalbio @powerbar_europe @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am

Erstbegehung: Dave Graham (US) klettert Sarlacc (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

Erstbegehung: Isabelle Faus (US) klettert Goldrush (Fb 8B) in Pine Creek (US)

Erstbegehung: Aidan Roberts (GB) klettert Railway (Fb 8C) in Wild Basin, Rocky Mountain National Park (US)

Cédric Lachat (CH) klettert Sweet Neuf (9a+) im Vercors (FR)

Andreas Matuska (AT) klettert Air Mode (Fb 8B) in Maltaberg (AT)

Jimmy Webb (US) klettert The Finnish Line (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

.... und The Healing (V14), Erstbegehung

Michi Wohlleben (DE) klettert Speed integrale (9a) in Voralpsee (CH)

Nicholas Milburn (US) klettert Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)

… und The Reckoning (V14)

David Mason (GB) klettert Dandelion Mind (Fb 8B/+) im Peak District (GB)

Erstbegehung: Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert Manphibian (9a) in Mt. Charleston (US)

Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert The Guestlist (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

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The Guestlist • 8B

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

... und Speed of Sound (Fb 8B+)

... und Good Hope (Fb 8B)

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