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Starke Leistungen am Fels: Chiara Hanke klettert als erste deutsche Frau glatt 11 im Frankenjura. Weitere Erstbegehungen und beeindruckende Wiederholungen der letzten Wochen listen wir hier.

19.06.2019

Chiara Hanke (DE) klettert Sever the wicked Hand (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

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I felt it the whole night and it has robbed me of sleep. Do you know the feeling that you are about to climb throught? Today I climbed "sever the wicked hand(9a)" in my home area Frankenjura 💚👍Such a great feeling to climb a route like this ! Thank you @christoph_hanke to be on my side and your great support with your crazy trainings instructions ♥️😂 Thanks a lot for this great picture and for your company @white_van_media @scarpa_de @bergzeit @beal.official @ropeless @benky_climbing @cafekraft_nuernberg

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chiara Hanke (@chiara_hanke) am Jun 22, 2019 um 1:06 PDT

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Indian secret garden (FB 8B) in Albarracin (ES)

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Yesterday i could finish the Indian secret garden 8b in allbaracin, a beautyfull power endurance problem by @corechristian . Hard to find good conditions here in spain with the summer arriving, but in shady place like this with a bit of wind and big breaks inbetween gos to cool down your body it wotks. Patience is one of the biggest challenges for me. Without looking at the clock i would give gos every 5 minutes because it feels like an hour when you are really motivated to try your project. Muchas gracias cabron @miquelet_navarro got the pic and the psyche !!! #liveclimbrepeat #chalkmatters #scarpa #climbing_pictures_of_instagramm #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing #neandergrips #albarracin #toehook

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonas Winter (@climb_to_heaven) am Jun 11, 2019 um 5:15 PDT

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert Battle Cat (8c) im Frankenjura (DE)

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The psych is high flying over the moon! I surprised myself with an awfully successful weekend in the #frankenjura. I suppose that all the hard work training is paying dividends! Despite warmer temperatures, I managed to dispatch „Battle Cat“ (8c), „Cringer“ (8b+) and „Cat Trap“ (8a+) over these three days. • • • I also had a great time at the dmm event in the Frankenjura and met some really nice people! DMM’s gear is thoughtfully designed and of impeccable quality! I tested out the new unisex Trance Harness and it fits perfectly. @dmm_wales • • Thanks @dorokara for the great 📸! 🤗

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Solveig Korherr (@solveig_amelie) am Jun 3, 2019 um 9:54 PDT

Moritz Welt klettert More Shining (Fb 8B) in der Silvretta

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Perfect week in #silvretta with perfect company, amazing conditions and beautiful boulders! One of my new favorite areas🌻 Here is a short ticklist of 5 days bouldering💪: More Shining 8B Rombuk 8A+ Zimalis Alexandra 8A+ Harakiri 8A+ Sucker Royal 8A+ Gringo ist sauer 8A/+ FA King of Nothing 8A/+ (📸:Harald Röker) British Airways 8A Niviuk 8A Flash High Society 7C+/8A Flash Sucker for Pain 8A Sucker for Gu 8A Bloodsucker 8A Diamond Nuts 8A Marabou full 7C+/8A Flash Shining 8A Video coming soon📽 @evolv_de @rafiki_climbing @cafekraft_nuernberg #klettern #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #frankenpower #bouldern #bouldering #holiday #silvapark #sendingtimes #mmmgh #werstelltderhält #hookschule #gringoistsauer #gusucks #mock #rodeln #evolvshoes #rafikiclothing #kraftchalk

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Moritz Welt (@moritzwelt_climbing) am Jun 23, 2019 um 4:40 PDT

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (IT) klettert Blade Runner (Fb 8C) in RMNP (US)

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Great day in Upper Chaos! Jade and Domestic Cat ☑️ @daisukeichimiya @scarpaspa @prana @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) am Jun 2, 2019 um 1:28 PDT

... und Jade und Domestic Cat (beide V14) in RMNP (US)

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Great day in Upper Chaos! Jade and Domestic Cat ☑️ @daisukeichimiya @scarpaspa @prana @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) am Jun 2, 2019 um 1:28 PDT

… und Topaz (Fb 8B/+) in Wild Basin, RMNP (US)

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Made an ascent of Topaz (8B+/C) in Wild Basin! I tried it briefly 3 years ago with 0 success, this time everything aligned and after some work it went down 2nd Go from the start. pic @_keenan_t FA @dave_graham_ @scarpaspa @frictionlabs @prana

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) am Mai 30, 2019 um 10:47 PDT

Erstbegehung: Laura Rogora klettert Reveille-toi (9a) in Cueva

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It's done ✅😊🎊💪 "Réveille-toi!" 9a FA😎 📸 @vzdr3v . . . #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #picoftheday #loveclimbing #climbforlife #escalade #escalada #grimper #klettern #montura #wildclimb #campcassin #italy #rome #bomber #instagood #instalike #instagram @climbskinspain @agripp_climbingholds @montura_official @terracielomare @wildclimb @fiammeoromoena

Ein Beitrag geteilt von laura rogora (@laura.rogora) am Jun 2, 2019 um 12:23 PDT

Alex Puccio (US) klettert Epochalypse (V13) am Flagstaff Mountain (US)

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Did a little impromptu evening Flagstaff session yesterday with @robinoleary and friends. Went to just hang out and have a little play and then surprised myself with being able to easily repeat “Trice” so thought why not try the little extension to it called “Epochalypse” V13/8B. Surprised myself with quick send and no bleeding tips. The cool part is that Trice was my first V12 back when I was 19 or 20 years old and now I’m turning 30 in 2 weeks! Sent the low start to Trice 10 years later. 😂 Nice first day back in the states!!! 😁 @scarpana @petzl_official @frictionlabs Thanks for the photo @benspannuth

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alex Puccio (@alex_puccio89) am Mai 31, 2019 um 8:25 PDT

Karo Sinnhuber (AT) klettert Nihilist und El Gauhara (FB 8A+) in Ginzling (AT)

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about yesterday: ticking ‚Nihilist‘ and ‘El Gauhara‘ both 8A+ ✅ #shapeiscoming 📷 by @fabian.leu @sosolid_official @belmezattitude @frictionlabs @scarpa_at @natureclimbing . . . . . . #natureclimbing #bouldering_came_first #climbgirls #climbing #klettern #bouldern #boulder #zillertal #valley #tyrol #tirol #austria #österreich #scarpaclimb #frictionlabs #chalkmatters #climaxmagazine #iloooveit

Ein Beitrag geteilt von karo sinnhuber (@karo_sinnhuber) am Jun 1, 2019 um 8:30 PDT

Erstbegehung: Seb Bouin (FR) klettert Beyond (Part 1) (9a/+)

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Beyond (Part 1) 9a/+ First Ascent ✅ Last Sunday I did the first part of my project in the Pic Saint Loup in France. This crag is amazing, it's a huge tufa overhanging wall on the top of the valley. This project Beyond is going straight up in the most overhanging part of the crag until the top (50 metters). There is a first Anchor. The first part (the one I did) is an incredible route. I was thinking the crux is almost impossible at the begining. It's almost roof climbing on bad crimps. After finding some micro betas for the first moves, I was missing the last hard move to go on a good tufa. I was thinking to give up until I found the tufa dyno. This move is incredible, you are falling on the crimps, and you have to jump on this tufa. This route will be for sure a hard classic of the Pic Saint Loup. About the grade it could be hard 9a, or 9a/+. Next repetitors will confirm it. About the second part of this route, there is a hard boulder problem straight after the first Anchor. After 4 goes in, I am still not able to do the moves… That's the First Ascent process 😁. During the last years I did hard FAs on this crag : Kmira 9a+, Legend 9a, and Beyond 9a/+. There routes are still unrepeated. I hope, one day, there will be some guys motivated by these world class routes. Pic by Raphael Fourau in Legend 9a FA More pictures and video are coming soon. Beyond (première partie) 9a/+ First Ascent ✅ Dimanche dernier j'ai réalisé la première partie de mon projet au Pic St Loup. Cette falaise est incroyable, c'est une baume déversante surplombant la vallée. Cette voie Beyond passe en plein milieu de la baume et rejoint le sommet 50 mètres plus haut. Il y a un relais intermédiaire. Cette voie sera pour sûr une classique dur du Pic Saint Loup. La première partie est incroyable, notemment de part le jeté sur colonette en fin de crux. A propos de la seconde partie , il y a un gros pas de bloc juste après le relais. Je n'ai toujours pas réussi les mouvements. C'est le FA processus 😁. Many thanks to support me in these project @blackdiamond @eb_climbing @altissimo_grabels @kayland_official @amazonas_ultralight @natureclimbing @climbskin @cc_grandpicsaintloup

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am Mai 31, 2019 um 11:18 PDT

Seb Bouin klettert Move (9b) in Flatanger (NO)

Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert den Sitzstart zu Envy (V13) und schlägt V14/15 vor

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Finally sent the roof project today!! I tried this project for more than 10days. It took the most try this season. It was because there was a move that was not good for me. I did not expect to be able to climb honestly today. I thought I had to wait for the next season. However, I think that the opportunity for the weather has increased my concentration and motivation. I could not do it at all when I started trying, but I could learn once again if I could do it without giving up. This is a small problem, but what I got from this problem is great. I think it is probably V14 / 15 or so. It was difficult for me. The name has not been decided yet. 今日ついに里上でトライしていたルーフプロジェクトを完成させた。正直今シーズンは登れないと思っていた。今日は日中暑かったが日が暮れると急激に気温が下がり、最高のコンディションだった。このプロジェクトは苦手な動きが出てきて自分には難しかった。やってれば出来るようになるもんだ。登れて嬉しい。グレードは良くわからないが5段くらいだと思う。たぶん。。

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dai Koyamada (@dai_koyamada) am Mai 30, 2019 um 9:44 PDT

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert La grosse Tarlouze (Fb 8C) in Magic Wood (CH)

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At least there are some hard problems which are not crimpy. Everything was wet at home last Thursday, so I decided to go for a little one day trip to Magic Wood. I wanted to try the great endurance testpiece "La grosse Tarlouze" (8C). I`ve already tried this ~35 move monster a few times over the years. Last year I had only one session on it where I fell 4 times at the very end. This time, after falling twice at the very end again, I was lucky enough and after a hell of a fight I stood on top of this huge boulder. Special thanks to my dude @markuskoecheler for the huge support and for the pic. . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Swiss #Schweiz #klettern #MagicWood #Zillertal #Graubünden #Switzerland #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am Jun 4, 2019 um 8:50 PDT

Sarah Kampf (DE) klettert Intercooler (8c) im Frankenjura

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Still a bit speechless and super happy about the ascent of the powerful "Intercooler" (8c), so cool to feel the perfect flow on these bouldery moves today. Thanks Kathi for the nice session with good conversations, many laughters and even coffee at the crag 💚☕💚 @scarpa_de @blackdiamond @sterlingrope @rab.equipment @lowe.alpine #climbing #klettern #climbingisbliss #frankenjura #fraenkischeschweiz #girlswhoclimb #rockclimbing #energy #summervibes #breathingfreshair #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sarah Kampf (Seeger) (@sarah.kampf) am Jun 6, 2019 um 6:09 PDT

Babsi Zangerl (AT) & Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern Everything is Karate (5.14c/d) in Bishop (US)

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We had such a good time here in Bishop. „Everything Karate“ (5.14c/d) and this huge move on the very top was such a challenge to me. So happy I finally caught that one!! Staying here in this peaceful, wild canyon felt like being right where we wanted to be. Please help the @bishopclimbers and keep this place wild and clean! #liveclimbrepeat #teamsend •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• Thanks so much to @benjaminbditto for joining us at the crag and capturing the moment!! Thanks to @ethan_pringle for the inspiration!!! And to @patrick_b_odonnell for bolting this proud line! •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @vibram @verivalbio @powerbar_europe @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am Jun 6, 2019 um 10:16 PDT

Babsi Zangerl (AT) & Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettern Father Time (5.13b, 20 SL) an der Middle Cathedral, Yosemite (US)

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Right in time at the (US) fathers day we sent “father time”. 4 days ago we went up to Leaning tower again and one more time we didn’t even get to climb. This time we didn’t want to wait and we decided to hop on to “father time” a 20pitch route from Mikey Schäfer on middle Cathedral. So it felt like running up and down for hours, also because we forgot our set of cams in the car. After our 5 a.m. alpine start we finally got to start climbing around 1 p.m. 🙈 The first tricky slab pitches were amazing. In the middle of the wall we ran into @warmewanderings and joined them at their camp. The day after we saw Amity working on the crux pitches, which was very impressive to watch. Those guys (Connor and Amity) told us it is their first ever big wall experience! So, we still not believe you guys!!! 😊 The following day it was our turn to get on the real bussines. And I have to say-> all of the three crux pitches felt very techy and hard to us...we definitely had to work on them before we could bring the puzzle together. And we ran out of food and water on day 3. So, I felt not good and was definitely ready to bail, after we got on the last hard pitch. Hungry and tired we rested for a while. Amity came up and delivered us some snacks, the best M&M mix I have ever had😊. So we decided to stay and give it a try. Surprisingly I got over the crux and found myself at the next belay! Jacopo was a bit unlucky at this day and slipped a couple of times on the smeary footholds! It got late and we were really tired -> pretty sure we will not make it this day. Then Amity and Connor (from one pitch below) were offering us a full treat of food for an extra day! So the game was on again!!! The day after Jacopo sent the pitch and we climbed up to the very top of the middle Cathedral. Thanks again @warmewanderings—> you made our day!!! #liveclimbrepeat ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• @blackdiamond @lasportivagram @vibram @verivalbio @powerbar_europe @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Babsi Zangerl (@babsizangerl) am Jun 17, 2019 um 9:31 PDT

Erstbegehung: Dave Graham (US) klettert Sarlacc (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

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First week of Rocklands this year was HOT 😅 To escape the heat we took refuge from the sun under some amazing new roofs and did some crucial scoping of potential projects for this season 🤔 Here is the FA of Sarlacc [8B] from a few days ago 🤟 Puzzling and powerful moves wandering through the Hueco-esque features with some strangely cruxy foot moves 🤓🤔😀 @petzl_official @fiveten_official @adidasterrex @climb_up_officiel @frictionlabs @sendclimbing @climbskinspain

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) am Jun 6, 2019 um 11:23 PDT

Erstbegehung: Isabelle Faus (US) klettert Goldrush (Fb 8B) in Pine Creek (US)

Erstbegehung: Aidan Roberts (GB) klettert Railway (Fb 8C) in Wild Basin, Rocky Mountain National Park (US)

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Railway-First Ascent- possibly 8c? Great 4 move boulder on small crimp rails I scouted at Wild Basin, learnt it was a project, and couldn't resist going yesterday and getting it done! The first move is without a doubt the crux and possibly the hardest move I've ever done on rock! The style suits me well, basic crimping, and this could well be my hardest climb to date. There's potential to keep the foot on for the first move if a little taller, time will tell the difficulty of it. I'm reluctant to grade it 8c as I have tried so few of this grade, though it feels significantly harder than any other 8b+ I've done so perhaps it could be logical. For now, the slash grade and I'll let some future climbers decide! Thanks @tchadx @fausey for putting us up and sorting us out with some ice bath recovery! On to new areas! 💪🏼 #neverstopexploring #noplacetoofar #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Aidan Roberts (@aidan.roberts98) am Jun 18, 2019 um 9:16 PDT

Cédric Lachat (CH) klettert Sweet Neuf (9a+) im Vercors (FR)

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Sweet neuf, 9a+, Pierrot Beach (Vercors, France) Une jolie performance que j’ai réussi à grimper après 7 séances malgré des conditions très humides... Je suis trop 😀. Maintenant place aux grandes voies... @petzl_official @karpos @scarpaspa photo: @simondestombes_photography #escaladepresles #pierrotbeach #climbing #karposdiem #karposambassador

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Cedric Lachat (@cedriclachat) am Jun 21, 2019 um 11:02 PDT

Andreas Matuska (AT) klettert Air Mode (Fb 8B) in Maltaberg (AT)

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Air 8b @scarpa_at #scrapaclimb #scarpaspa @e9clothing_official #e9climbing #e9team #metoliusclimbing @tokyopowder @tokyo_powder_germany #bouldering #maltatal #maltatalrocks

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Andreas Matuska (@andi_matuska) am Apr 1, 2019 um 12:41 PDT

Jimmy Webb (US) klettert The Finnish Line (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

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The last week or so have certainly been good to me! A few days ago I completed my number one goal of the trip here in Rocklands. Massive thanks for the support krew that day and props to @nalle_hukkataival for establishing one of the best in the world. 👊 ‘The Finnish Line’ 8C. Cheers @_keenan_t for the rad 📸 #bouldering #rocklands #lifelist @hippytree @tenayaclimbing @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jimmy Webb (@jwebxl) am Jun 24, 2019 um 9:37 PDT

.... und The Healing (V14), Erstbegehung

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Finally back in my favorite place on earth. 🇿🇦 My first main objective of the trip was to revisit an old line I envisioned 4 years ago. It’s a 25 foot 45 degree wall with just enough holds to climb it. Back then I could imagine it going, but just didn’t have the guts to delve in. This year though, with the help and psych from @arjandekock & @_keenan_t, I was able to put down one of the absolute best lines I’ve ever touched. ‘The Healing’ V14 FA // Massive thanks for the spots doods. Going to be a good season!! 🙌 @_keenan_t with the 📸 .. @hippytree @tenayaclimbing @organicclimbing @metoliusclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jimmy Webb (@jwebxl) am Jun 14, 2019 um 8:12 PDT

Michi Wohlleben (DE) klettert Speed integrale (9a) in Voralpsee (CH)

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„Speed integrale“ 9a ✅😍. When childhood dreams come true...I can’t describe what it means to me. Thx to everybody who helped me in this process! @jacopolarcher @nadinewallner @nemuel_feurle @leonie_venier @babsizangerl @jakobschweighofer @alex_scherl @romanberner @klausisele So much thx to my sponsors who left me free time to do what I want and look if the big leg running Alpinist can still climb 🙏. @adidasterrex @primaloft @scarpa_de @petzl_official @garmin_beatyesterday @frictionlabs @leki.ski.outdoor @pureathleten @therapierbar_vorarlberg @julbo_eyewear #climbing #first9a #voralpsee #alps #climber #klettern #adidasterrex #scarpaclimb #climbinglife #climbing_is_my_passion #bouldern #climbing_lovers #sportclimbing #switzerland #julboathlete #climb #climbing_pictures_of_instagram

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michi Wohlleben (@michiwohlleben) am Jun 1, 2019 um 12:22 PDT

Nicholas Milburn (US) klettert Dreamcatcher (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)

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Finally caught the dream. • Dreamcatcher | 5.14d • Photo by @honngy

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nicholas Milburn (@nikolaimilburn) am Jun 6, 2019 um 10:44 PDT

… und The Reckoning (V14)

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It feels pretty special to be in sport shape and bouldering shape at the same time. Dreamcatcher might just be a big boulder, so this could actually be a bad example, but I'm taking it. • The Reckoning | V14 • Photo by @honngy

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nicholas Milburn (@nikolaimilburn) am Jun 11, 2019 um 1:25 PDT

David Mason (GB) klettert Dandelion Mind (Fb 8B/+) im Peak District (GB)

Erstbegehung: Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert Manphibian (9a) in Mt. Charleston (US)

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I took a break from bolting the multipitch project this weekend to let the snow melt, and yesterday I climbed this powerhouse rig up at Robber’s Roost that I’ve been trying called ‘Manphibian’ 9a from @andy_raether ... Andy has a keen eye for gut-wrenching, squeezing, strength endurance type rigs and this one was was certainly that, and also super fun to climb on. I ran my fastest mtb lap down Tin Can Alley in the evening light to finish the day - damn I love Vegas! Thanks for the video clips Seth! • @arcteryx @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing #maximropes @climbonproducts @vertical.life.climbing @theprobar @zealoptics

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonathan Siegrist (@jonathansiegrist) am Jun 10, 2019 um 10:38 PDT

Thilo Schroeter (NO) klettert The Guestlist (Fb 8B) in Rocklands (ZA)

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The Guestlist • 8B

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am Jun 10, 2019 um 12:45 PDT

... und Speed of Sound (Fb 8B+)

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Speed of Sound • 8B+ 🔊 ⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀ One of the best boulders out there!! Two sick working sessions with @nilsfavre led up to this moment, and with a proper big and psyched crew today I executed it straight away. Feel good send for sure, one I will remember for a little while! 😁 Two weeks left in paradise, on to the next..

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am Jun 14, 2019 um 11:42 PDT

... und Good Hope (Fb 8B)

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Good Hope • 8B ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ This one is situated perfectly on top of a hill, and probably has the longest hike in Rocklands. Knees are hurting and I’m pretty stoked this one is done after an unsuccessful session a couple of years ago. @andygullsten jumped on the send train on Good Hope, @jo.feder crushed Ceder Spine 7C+, and @nilsfavre fought his way up Armed Response 8A+ - epic day for the crew! This burger at De Kelder is gonna taste sooo good 🤤🍔 ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ 📸: @andygullsten

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am Jun 24, 2019 um 12:21 PDT

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