KL Thomas Dauser das Wunder von Essing 11- Altmühltal Maximilian Dauser


Highlights: Sarah Kampf, Thomas Dauser,...

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Sarah Kampf punktet 8c, Thomas Dauser klettert 11-, Jorge Diaz-Rullo klettert 9b und weitere harte Züge der letzten Wochen.

Jorge Díaz-Rullo (ES) klettert 'Planta de Shiva' (9b) in Villanueva de Rosario (ES)

Erstbegehung: Alexander Huber (DE) klettert 'Ois Easy' (8a) am Kleinen Barmstein (DE)

Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'The Outer Limits' (V15) in Tahoe (US)

Erstbegehung: Siebe Vanhee (BE), Roger Molina & Jorge Solorzano (ES) klettern 'Sense Retorn' (7c+, 349m) in Mont Rebei (ES)

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FA and FFA of “SENSE RETORN” – “No Turning Back” – Homage to @hansjoergauer En Castellano abajo en los commentarios I can’t think of a way more beautiful to remember Hansjörg… climbing. “If climbing is the thing that makes you happy in life, well do it and live that life” (Hansjörg would state). ⁣⁣ ⁣⁣⁣⁣ ⁣ SENSE RETORN is the new route on ‘Pared de Catalunya’ in #montrebei , Spain. Opened ground-up in 4 days (27/04 – 30/04) together with Spanish maquinas Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano. I managed to freeclimb the 9 pitches in one day (05/05) with a minimum of bolts and a maximum of removable protection and pitons. The whole free ascent I was supported by Catalan climber @miquel.mas . Two 7c+ pitches on adventurous terrain (read: loose and sometimes hard to protect) make this climb a big challenge! Also the mid 7th grade pitches provide a pure mental challenge. ⁣ Some of the pitches are entirely clean (of protection) and climb exposed pieces of rock! Some poor rock quality alternate with magical pieces of solid rock. It’s the line we had hoped for, respecting the pure ethics and culture of Montrebei. Which is ground-up climbing using removable protection like friends, nuts and slings as well as the use of a hammer and pitons while opening the route. Some pitches have bolts for when it was really impossible to climb on removable protection. Freeclimbing and onsighting on virgin terrain in this style is what I dreamed off! ⁣⁣ ⁣ Because of the pure character of the climb, the intense moment in my life with the loss of a good friend and climbing partner, we (Roger, Jorge and myself) dedicate this climb to Hansjörg. ‘Sense Retorn’ is the Catalan expression for ‘Without Return’, a free translation of Hansjörgs latest movie ‘No Turning Back’. His movie is pure, true and sincere, all the things the new route requires to be climbed. Freeclimbing SENSE RETORN gives no option to return, the only way is up! This is also the message I want to give to all fellow climbers who lost a friend. Sit still, mourn and climb on with your friend in your heart. ⁣⁣ ⁣ ⁣ @davidlopezcampe ⁣ This post continues in comments...

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am

Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert 'Die unendliche Geschichte' (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood (CH)

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Memory is parallax' (V14) in Colorado (US)

Toni Lamprecht (DE) klettert 'Muttertagsdach' (Fb 8B+) in Kochel (DE)

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Muttertagsdach, Fb 8b+?

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anton Ator (@tonilamprecht71) am

Sarah Kampf (DE) klettert 'Headcrash' (10+/11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

Erstbegehung: Bernd Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Il Colonel' in Noasca

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Das Wunder von Essing' (8c) im Südlichen Frankenjura (DE)

Clément Lechaptois (FR) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) & 'Riverbed' (Fb 8B) im Magic Wood

Flash: Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Steppenwolf' (8B) im Magic Wood (CH)

Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Inferno' (Fb 8B+) in Chile

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