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Highlights: Sarah Kampf, Thomas Dauser,...

Sarah Kampf punktet 8c, Thomas Dauser klettert 11-, Jorge Diaz-Rullo klettert 9b und weitere harte Züge der letzten Wochen.

Jorge Díaz-Rullo (ES) klettert 'Planta de Shiva' (9b) in Villanueva de Rosario (ES)

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"La planta de Shiva" 9b ️ Increíble haber alcanzado este sueño, tanto por ser una de las mejores lineas como por haber llegado a un grado que nunca pensé que haría Han sido dos meses muy intensos, en los que tuve que ganar el físico a la vía y sobretodo superarla mentalmente, que es lo que más me ha costado... Ahora por fin ya puedo celebrarlo! Además tengo muchas ganas de probar un montón de vías que aún no he probado! Enhorabuena a los que fueron delante mía @adam.ondra @jakob.schubert @angyeiter @jonathansiegrist y MIL GRACIAS a todos los que habéis conseguido que todo esto fuese más fácil! VA POR VOSOTROS!! ️ ************** Foto @javipec mi foto favorita ____________________________________________ #love #sport #exercise #fit #climbing_magazine #iloveclimbing #climbing_lovers #photooftheday #fitness #ninjawarriorspain #tv #climbing #climb #climber #nature #training #rockclimbing #competitiveclimber #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #escaladadeportiva #escaladaroca #climbing_wordwide #timetoclimb #boulder #bouldering #route

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jorge Díaz-Rullo (@jorgeclimb) am Mai 28, 2019 um 11:01 PDT

Erstbegehung: Alexander Huber (DE) klettert 'Ois Easy' (8a) am Kleinen Barmstein (DE)

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Finally... after ten weeks break I'm back to climbing. Even though I still feel some kind of weakness, my broken left foot is now stable enough to hold my body weight. Three days ago, I made the first ascent of a beautiful new line on my home crag. 'Ois Easy' should be something like 8a and requires good footwork - the best training for my foot. #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing #sportclimbing #climber #berchtesgadenerland #berchtesgaden @adidasterrex @petzl_official

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alexander Huber (@alexander_huberbuam) am Mai 28, 2019 um 3:30 PDT

Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'The Outer Limits' (V15) in Tahoe (US)

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The Outer Limits V15. The after work session proved successful yet again although it feels like every session is an after work session these days. I scoped this line years ago in the middle of summer and was really impressed. It’s a 5 star stunner all the way. @jwebxl solved the intricacies of the movement and made the first ascent in late 2017 marking the start of his tear through the Tahoe zones. I returned last year for 2 sessions and it felt nearly impossible. I almost didn’t return this year because it seemed like such a monumental project for me especially with my limited climbing time lately. I dug it out a 2 weeks ago, surprised myself by solving the crux section after falling off the last hard move at least 10 times from the bottom, managed to pull it together last night. I find it so hard to assess difficulty these days. I firmly believe my pure power is nowhere near what it used to be, but I’ve found ways of making up for it. Technique and experience goes a long way. Looking forward to trying more hard boulders throughout the summer. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official #liveclimbrepeat #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Carlo Traversi (@carlodenali) am Mai 10, 2019 um 12:53 PDT

Erstbegehung: Siebe Vanhee (BE), Roger Molina & Jorge Solorzano (ES) klettern 'Sense Retorn' (7c+, 349m) in Mont Rebei (ES)

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FA and FFA of “SENSE RETORN” – “No Turning Back” – Homage to @hansjoergauer En Castellano abajo en los commentarios I can’t think of a way more beautiful to remember Hansjörg… climbing. “If climbing is the thing that makes you happy in life, well do it and live that life” (Hansjörg would state). ⁣⁣ ⁣⁣⁣⁣ ⁣ SENSE RETORN is the new route on ‘Pared de Catalunya’ in #montrebei , Spain. Opened ground-up in 4 days (27/04 – 30/04) together with Spanish maquinas Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano. I managed to freeclimb the 9 pitches in one day (05/05) with a minimum of bolts and a maximum of removable protection and pitons. The whole free ascent I was supported by Catalan climber @miquel.mas . Two 7c+ pitches on adventurous terrain (read: loose and sometimes hard to protect) make this climb a big challenge! Also the mid 7th grade pitches provide a pure mental challenge. ⁣ Some of the pitches are entirely clean (of protection) and climb exposed pieces of rock! Some poor rock quality alternate with magical pieces of solid rock. It’s the line we had hoped for, respecting the pure ethics and culture of Montrebei. Which is ground-up climbing using removable protection like friends, nuts and slings as well as the use of a hammer and pitons while opening the route. Some pitches have bolts for when it was really impossible to climb on removable protection. Freeclimbing and onsighting on virgin terrain in this style is what I dreamed off! ⁣⁣ ⁣ Because of the pure character of the climb, the intense moment in my life with the loss of a good friend and climbing partner, we (Roger, Jorge and myself) dedicate this climb to Hansjörg. ‘Sense Retorn’ is the Catalan expression for ‘Without Return’, a free translation of Hansjörgs latest movie ‘No Turning Back’. His movie is pure, true and sincere, all the things the new route requires to be climbed. Freeclimbing SENSE RETORN gives no option to return, the only way is up! This is also the message I want to give to all fellow climbers who lost a friend. Sit still, mourn and climb on with your friend in your heart. ⁣⁣ ⁣ ⁣ @davidlopezcampe ⁣ This post continues in comments...

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am Mai 9, 2019 um 8:28 PDT

Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert 'Die unendliche Geschichte' (Fb 8B+) im Magic Wood (CH)

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“The Never Ending Story” 8b+] A historical problem opened by the legend Chris Sharma back in 2003. So happy to finish one of the classics. On to the next! @frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Leon Fraunholz (@leon_fraunholz) am Mai 22, 2019 um 6:31 PDT

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Memory is parallax' (V14) in Colorado (US)

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Memory is Parallax (V14) ️ One of the best in Colorado! FA @dave_graham_ FFA @fausey Special thanks to @sam__weir for the support @scarpaspa @prana @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) am Mai 19, 2019 um 10:53 PDT

Toni Lamprecht (DE) klettert 'Muttertagsdach' (Fb 8B+) in Kochel (DE)

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Muttertagsdach, Fb 8b+?

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anton Ator (@tonilamprecht71) am Mai 15, 2019 um 1:47 PDT

Sarah Kampf (DE) klettert 'Headcrash' (10+/11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

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This journey started with solo toprope missions at 1°C and snowfall, it continued with quite a few days walking to the crag for nothing as it was soaking wet to finally having some nice (even though freezing cold) sessions with good company and step by step progress. And then everything fell into place - weekend vibes, sunshine, a gentle breeze, no time pressure, happy kids and happy parents. Very glad about the send of "Headcrash" (8c), a true #Frankenjura beauty. @scarpa_de @blackdiamond @sterlingrope @rab.equipment @lowe.alpine #climbing #klettern #climbingisbliss #breathingfreshair #fraenkischeschweiz #rockclimbing #outdoorlife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_lovers #climbinginspiration #womenwhoclimb #climblikeagirl

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sarah Kampf (Seeger) (@sarah.kampf) am Mai 19, 2019 um 8:20 PDT

Erstbegehung: Bernd Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Il Colonel' in Noasca

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#IL COLONEL, sds The mind is a extraordinary instrument - we are here to learn how to play it I always dreamed to make powerful moves again. Finally I made the SDS to @nil y_ceria’s "IL COLONEL" ......two hard moves which took all I have got. One of the best problems I ever did. One of the most beautiful lines i ever climbed. Thanks to all my friends who supported me in this trip & special thanks to Sandro & Sabrina, Danilo & Pietro, Andrea & domenica @ristobar gran paradiso for their hospitality & fun times in @Noasca @believe_in_miracles_and_love @redbull @adidasterrex @ropeless @fiveten_official @petzl_official @skinourishment @petzl_austria @galtuer_com

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Bernd Zangerl (@berndzangerl) am Mai 17, 2019 um 1:09 PDT

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Das Wunder von Essing' (8c) im Südlichen Frankenjura (DE)

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Yesterday in the Southern Frankenjura, "Das Wunder von Essing" (11-/8c). Very technical, but surprisingly sustained climbing for the short route. Thanks for the and the best beta allowing me to climb it in one session @maexdauser . . . @dmm_wales @scarpa_de @kletterretter #climbnowworklater

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Thomas Dauser (@thdauser) am Mai 19, 2019 um 3:55 PDT

Clément Lechaptois (FR) klettert 'New Base Line' (Fb 8B+) & 'Riverbed' (Fb 8B) im Magic Wood

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'New Base Line' 8B+] Some days ago I was fortunate enough to climb this legendary boulder from @berndzangerl. I had this sweet line in mind since my first visit to MW in 2013. Then last year I finally tried it, and found it was trickiest than expected. The first crack section it quite technical and requires a good friction. The last days in the woods were cold and windy, perfect. Then I was able to finish my day floating on another classic: 'Riverbed' 8B]. Sometimes everything seems easier. More days like this plzzz! • @damienlargeron • @arkose.climbing #arkose @snap.climbing #snapclimbing @unparallelup #unparallelUP @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkmatters #chalkupless

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Clément Lechaptois (@clem_lechap) am Mai 16, 2019 um 9:24 PDT

Flash: Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Steppenwolf' (8B) im Magic Wood (CH)

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Steppenwolf (V13) FLASH! My first 8B flash. A perfect boulder that was completely my style. I’ve been gunning for a V13 flash for a while, and I’ve gotten really close several times recently but psyched I was finally able to pull it off on such an iconic boulder! ️ ️ by @fredliveshigh @madrockclimbing @asanaclimbing @frictionlabs @craftedenergybars @physivantage @tensionclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Matt Fultz (@matt_fultz) am Mai 19, 2019 um 7:26 PDT

Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Inferno' (Fb 8B+) in Chile

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Inferno (8B+) __________________ Stoked to make the 3rd asc. of Chile's current hardest bloc put up by @faculangbehn . When I first saw this line, the idea of flashing it seemed realistic. I had perfect condis and flowed through every move like it was a redpoint try. I didnt keep my left heel (used a toe instead) for the final move to the jug and got spat back down to the mats. I fuckin blew it but such is life. _________________________ At first I thought maybe this line was not 8B+. I continued to session for 2 more hours and did not send. This concluded in my mind that it was hard and I just had a very special flash try. It isnt the hardest 8B+ in the world but def warrants the grade imo. Nice work Facu ... legend crimp testpiece

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Daniel Woods (@dawoods89) am Mai 22, 2019 um 8:01 PDT

Sarah Burmester 29.05.2019

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