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KL Adam Ondra klettert in Santa Linya Jan Novak

Klettern extrem - aktuelle Top-Begehungen

Highlights: Piotr Schab, Adam Ondra, Isabelle Faus

Inhalt von

Mit 3 mal V11 und 2 V12 gewinnt Michaela Kiersch das Hueco Tanks Rock Rodeo. Piotr Schab klettert La Rambla, Max Räuber wiederholt The Story of two Worlds und Adam Ondra erledigt Neanderthal.

Michaela Kiersch (US) gewinnt Rock Rodeo mit 2xV12 & 3xV11 in Hueco Tanks, Texas (US)

Domen Skofic (SL) klettert 'Bumaye' (8c+) in Margalef (ES)

Moritz Perwitzschky (DE) klettert 'Crowbar' (Fb 8B+) im Frankenjura (DE)

Erstbegehung: Moritz Perwitzschky (DE) klettert 'Kalokagathia' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert 'Neanderthal' (9b) in Santa Linya (ES)

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Neanderthal 9b, Santa Linya There are not many routes that I can tell about that I really hated then at certain point. But Nenderthal was definitely one of them. Not because the route is of bad quality, just because how many times I failed again and again. Getting over it and finally suceeding was a huge lesson. 2011 - tried one day, made it to the dyno 2nd go, next day it got wet. 2015 - tried for like a week, and found out I just could not the dyno from the ground. It felt too had with two fingers in the pocket, and I had no idea how to squeeze my 3 fat fingers in. 2017 - I found better kneebars, figured out how to squeeze my fat fingers into the pocket and stuck the dyno on day one of the trip!! Only to fall off from the nohand-rest above because a foothold broke. Then, I tried for 5 more days, but never had good conditions or I was just too weak. Second trip of that year I got sick. 2019 - Short trip and second-last day of the trip I stuck the dyno and fell higher again, due to brutal flash pump this time. Last day of the trip, first try falling of the dyno again, sun is slowly coming, I need to go fast. Now, or yet another season. It was an epic try, but hell - it felt good to be in the sun at the anchor. Pic by @jan_novak_photography in Santa Linya, but a different route. Props to @chris_sharma for making FA of this beast 10 years ago, and @jakob.schubert for the second ascent in December. @montura_official @lasportivagram @mytendon @blackdiamond @gardatrentino

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Adam Ondra (@adam.ondra) am

Ryohei Kameyama (JP) klettert 'Kuzan' (Fb 8C) in Mie (JP)

Video: Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Dreamcatcher' (5.14d) in Squamish (CA)

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert 'From Dirt grows the Flowers' (Fb 8C) in Chironico...

... und 'Assassin, Monkey & Man' (Fb 8C) in Kochel

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Another project is done. Last weekend I made the second ascent of @tonilamprecht71 ‘s „Bokassa‘s Fridge - Assassin, Monkey and Man“ (8C) in Kochel. Ten years ago Toni realized the first ascent of this amazing fridge. I tried it on and off for over a year. One year ago I injured my left biceps/shoulder on it and took me quite a while to get fully recovered. Psyched to put it down! by @tonilamprecht71 . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Germany #Deutschland #Bayern #Munich #Zillertal #klettern #Kochel #München #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am

Piotr Schab (PL) klettert 'La Rambla' (9a+) in Siurana (ES)

.... und '20 anos despues' (9a)

Erstbegehung: Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert 'Earn your Stripes' (V11) in Roy, New Mexico (US)

Erstbegehung: Chris Sharma (US) eröffnet 30-Zug-Traverse (9a / 8b+ trav) in Cava de Ocell (ES)

Nina Williams (US) wiederholt 'Earn your stripes' (V11)

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Earn Your Stripes (V11) Second Ascent of @_keenan_t’s gorgeous line. Story Time! . I scoped the upper sequence on a rope only a couple times before trying from the ground. The bottom moves went first go, faster than I thought, and I suddenly found myself in the middle of the face. Jump down, or keep going? I knew I had the physical capability so I opted to climb on. Mentally, though, I was not all there. . In the upper thin-crimps section, I braced against repeated gusts of wind My fingers numbed out. I wasn’t ‘in the zone’. As I placed my fingers on the back of my neck, attempting to warm them, the elbow of my other arm chicken-winged: an ominous sign of pump. I felt a small bubble of anxiety rise in my chest, but I also knew my options. Keep crimping, keep climbing. . I topped out with a big sigh of relief and proceeded to experience the WORST case of screaming barfies from over-crimping in the cold wind I couldn’t take off my shoes for a solid 10 minutes. I was relieved, but critical of myself for not feeling 110% prepared. . I never once felt that I had crossed my ‘danger threshold’ or been out of my abilities. However, I haven’t been this ‘out’ of the zone in awhile. By focusing too much on the send, I rushed the process. It was a very good reminder for future endeavors. . Be not a conqueror of the climb, but a living, breathing addition to the landscape. Exist within the natural canvas and appreciate the present moment. For me, that is the feeling of true success . @james_lucas We are sitting on so much footy from Roy, keep an eye out for a full vid soon! #roybouldering #climbing @organicclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nina Williams (@sheneenagins) am

Video: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Deal with the Devil' (Fb 8B) in Göschenen (CH)

Tine Hafsaas (NO) klettert 'Rumble in the Jungle' (Fb 8A+) in Hueco (US)

Erstbegehung: Chris Sharma (US) klettert 'Groovy' (5.14b) in Pine Creek Canyon (US)

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Last October we spent a couple weeks back in one of my old stomping grounds ... Bishop CA Aside from the usual pilgrimage back to the Buttermilk’s I spent some time exploring more of Pine Creek Canyon. It’s pretty impressive how much good rick@is tucked away back there. Kinda crazy to think I lived less than a mile away 20 years ago and had no idea the wonderland up there. I was stoked to make a new contribution to the zone with a new route up a slopy groove on the Delta Wall. “Groovy” 5.14b is a super classic granite sport route. Stoked for others to try and enjoy! @tenayaclimbing @prana @maximropes @yobasecamp @sharmaclimbingbcn @clifbar @vertical.life.climbing @climbskinspain @giancolafoto

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chris Sharma (@chris_sharma) am

... und 'Barefoot on Sacred Ground' (V12) in Hueco Tanks

Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington & Quentin Roberts klettern 'MA Vision' (5.12c) am Torre Egger, Patagonien

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MA’s Visión (Marc-André’s Vision) is a line which curves delicately up the lower East Pillar of Torre Egger, connecting into Titanic. Marc had seen this line while soloing Torre Egger in 2016 and together we were hoping to return and climb it. This was a line I couldn’t do alone, so I called up my friend @quentinlroberts and he joined me in establishing the lower pillar this season which connects into Titanic. We are motivated to return and complete the line to the summit. Here are some photos to share some inspiration for the route . P1: Quentin climbing up to me on pitch 6, 11c. P2: i’m about to embark on the crux pitch 7, 12c. P3: Quentin climbing up to me on the upper headwall in new terrain. P4: Me at the mini bivy. P5: Quentin working on an artistic topo. P7: the east pillar of Torre Egger. I’m sad to be leaving my Patagonian summer home. I will miss all of my marvelous friends and family. @arcteryx @lasportivana @julbo_eyewear @dmm_wales #arcteryx #Torreegger #patagoniargentina #alpineclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brette Harrington (@bretteharrington) am

Thilo Schroeter klettert 'Bandersnatch' (V13)

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Sick introduction to West! Got the 3rd (?) ascent of Bandersnatch V13, a long overhanging arête with the ground following. Took some time to figure out all the moves, but then I slayed it first and last possible try from the bottom as the sun made it’s appearance and attracted the local rattlesnake to set up camp under the boulder. Almost stepped on that fucker! Then the tour went on to two new @jasonkehl_cryptochild stunners - Anti Matter 10 & Worm Wood V8, they are both super sick. Anti Matter gave us a soft introduction to the tunnelling approaches on West, and it has some of the smoothest holds I’ve seen in Hueco. Worm Wood takes that one step further featuring the nicest tufa I’ve ever seen, and combining that with really good movement, a spicy top out, and a view! Psyched to flash that one! Thanks for the epic day @samdavisphoto, @anaburg0s, @tinajhafsaas, @downwardfacingthumb, and Tim!!⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀ @tinajhafsaas from Worm Wood and that tufaaaah

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

... und 'Diabolic' (V13), sowie 'Diaphanous Sea' (V11) im Flash

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Not a bad day - Diabolic V13, Diaphanous Sea V11 flash, and The Rhino V11. ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀@tinajhafsaas from Diabolic. ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀⠀ ⠀⠀⠀ ⠀ ⠀⠀ Haven’t given proper trip updates like I promised the homies back home due to lack of media. Anyways, Full Throttle V13 went down the other day, it’s probably the coolest boulder in the Tanks, and it took me quite some effort to slay so I’m very happy about that one. Same day I flashed Mo Mojo V12 in the sunset, which was fun. Three days ago I flashed Chninkel V11, and @tinajhafsaas smashed it first try, after going through all the moves. And yesterday she did Rumble V12 - casual

Ein Beitrag geteilt von THILO SCHRÖTER (@thiloschroeter) am

... und 'Neon Desert' (V14)

Samuel Ometz (CH) klettert 'Dreamtime' (Fb 8B+) im Tessin (CH)

Video: Max Räuber (DE) klettert 'Story of two Worlds' (Fb 8C)

Erstbegehung: Martin Stranik (CZ) klettert 'Kapka z Nápoje Nesmrtelnosti SD (Fb 8B+)

Erstbegehung: Dai Koyamada (JP) klettert 'Kaerazu'

Toshi Takeushi (JP) klettert 'Utsusemi' (V13)

Erstbegehung: Siebe Vanhee klettert 'Alas de Angel' in San Isidro (MX)

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Alas de Ángel * First Ascent - Unnamed wall - San Isidro valley * Finally the topo of our new route on the unnamed wall in the Isidro valley near the famous sportclimbing area El Salto, Monterrey, Mexico. Together with Mark we bolted this 260 meter sportclimb ground-up in December 2018. A three-day effort, of which two fun days on the wall in capsule style with the portaledge. “Alas de Ángel” has 8 pitches and is sustained in mid 7th grade range and has probably one 8a pitch. We didn’t try to freeclimb the route yet because a lack of time. I had to hurry to catch my plane to Chihuahua for the next challenge on “El Gigante” with Dave Allfrey. I will definitely come back to try and freeclimb the entire route. First it needs some cleaning because it is still a deadly Super Mario game right now. I would also like to ask people to NOT try it yet. First of all, cause I’m psyched to first climb it myself, and second… we would feel awful if someone gets hurt because of some loose rock. ⁣ Thanks again to Mark for using all his bolting gear, his bolt stock and showing me many of the walls in the nearby valleys. It was nice to add a multipitch route to this upcoming Mexican climbing spot. Thanks to Carlos Flores for trusting us his precious big wall gear. Thanks to @mac.carlos and Joel for the advice and place to stay. As well big thanks to @camping_climbing the campground of El Salto for the cosy evenings! I’m looking forward for some other first ascent projects this year! #elsaltoclimbing #bolting #firstascent #groundupbolting #neverstopexploring #thenorthfaceteam #jungle #mexico #summit #jungleclimbing #bigwall #bigwallclimbing #rockclimbing #climbing #climbingphotography #multipitch #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #noplacetoofar ⁣ @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @petzl_official @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @totemmt @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am

Video: Daniel Woods klettert 'Black Eagle assis' (Fb 8C) in Rocklands (ZA)

Isabelle Faus (US) klettert 'Memory is parallax' (V14) in Elkland (US)

Video: Isabelle Faus klettert 'Delusion of Grandeur' (Fb 8B) in Chironico (CH)

Erstbegehung: Jimmy Webb klettert 'Zika' (V13) in Lake Tahoe (US)

Video: Shawn Raboutou klettert 'Off the Wagon low' (Fb 8C+) im Tessin (CH)

Trainings-Inspiration von Vadim Timonov (RU)

Warm-up Tipp von den Firnenburg Brothers

Sarah Burmester 19.02.2019
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