Highlights: Ondra, Ghisolfi, Graham, Ometz und starke Schwäbinnen

Inhalt von

Adam Ondra klettert 'Naturalmente' (9a+), Dave Graham zieht King Lines im Tessin, Stefano Ghisolfi liefert eine 9a+ Erstbegehung und einige Mädels bouldern schwer in Fontainebleau. Und mehr.

KL Stefano Ghisolfi FA One Punch 9a+
Foto: Stefano Ghisolfi Instagram

Hier gibt's den schnellen Überblick über die Ticks der letzten Tage. Adam Ondra und Stefano Ghisolfi stehen gut im Saft; die Mädels lassen sich aber auch nicht lumpen. Mit La Cicatrice de l'Ohm hat die Französin Caro Sinno eine Linie gefunden, bei der die Schwierigkeit nicht über weite Züge entsteht, sondern über kleine Griffe – so gelang vor einigen Wochen Melissa Le Neve der Boulder, nun konnte Caro ihr Projekt auch punkten. Und die aus Schwaben stammenden Mädels Kaddi Lehmann und Mile Heyden sind der Empfehlung von Caro ebenso gefolgt und konnten die Traverse auch punkten. Ursprünglich war sie mit 8B+ (trav) bewertet, Caro übersetzt dies mit circa 8A+ (bloc).

Unsere Highlights

Stefano Ghisolfi: 'One Punch' (9a+)

Stefano Ghisolfi schreibt dazu: "Yesterday I made the first ascent of One Punch, one of the hardest route I've ever climbed! 9a+ could be the right grade, but it took me 10 days and I think it is very hard! Hopefully we will see a second (and third?) ascent soon."

Adam Ondra: 'Naturalmente' (9a+)

Mit der Route Naturalmente (9a+) gelang dem Tschechen Adam Ondra im April eine harte Erstbegehung. Außerdem kletterte er noch La Terza Eta (9a), ebenfalls eine Erstbegehung und ebenfalls im Klettergebiet Camaiore, Toskana, Italien. Einige Tage vorher konnte er noch die von Stefano Ghisolfi erstbegangene Route Lapsus (9b) in Andonno wiederholen. Für die Route Perfect Man 2.0 (9a) in Castelbianco brauchte er nur zwei Versuche.

Dave Graham klettert 'Ill Trill' und 'The Shelter'

Dave schreibt dazu: "Super syked to have made an ascent of Ill Trill (8B+) in the epic rain storm that turned blizzard and shut down the woods!! @philipperibiere was hangin out, keepin it positive; despite the seemingly doomed conditions he encouraged a last try before I abandoned ship, I maintained it was too humid, but gave er the hail mary, and boom, checkpoint!! Shows what I know about sending temps... Great rig first ascended by @paulrobinson87 , @berndzangerl with the vision!! Here's a photo from a drier session by @thecircuitclimbing !! Back in Bavona now with a great crew and amazing conditions, lets keep this train rollin!!! "

The Shelter in Val Bavona gelang ihm einige Tage später.

Jimmy Webb klettert 'Ill Trill'

Der Fotograf Eddie Fowke aka The Circuit Climbing schreibt dazu: "Nice work Jimmy Webb for getting it done on Ill Trill (8B+) in Magic Wood today. Always impressive to watch the big man in crush mode!"

Samuel Ometz: Erstbegehung

Samuel Ometz schreibt dazu: "Le Frigo (8A+) first ascent today. Another pure one! There are new boulders for everybody here, just come and do them."

Kaddi Lehmann klettert 'La Cicatrice de l'Ohm' (Fb 8B+ trav)

Kaddi Lehmann schreibt dazu: "So cool to finish this one off some days ago. La cicatrice de l'ohm in Fontainebleau. It's a very nice line and especially the start moves I really like. Body tension, heelhooks, small but not too small crimps...suited me really well. After my back injury, a prolaps in the lower spine, it is nice to be able to try hard again. Will still stick to low boulders for a while though. Thanks @carosinno, without you climbing la cicatrice I possibly would have never seen this boulder."

Caro Sinno 'La Cicatrice de l'Ohm'

Caro Sinno schreibt dazu: "Just one word: soooooooo happy! This was my biggest fight in Font, and it was more of a mental thing in the end.. Very very please to have put a lot of dedication, training and hard work into la cicatrice de l'ohm! It was nice to rediscover a forgotten&majestic line that wasn't climbed since it was opened roughly 10 years ago. It was put up at 8b/+ trav grade by Arnaud Ceintre but I did the natural exit of the line which makes it a real boulder problem around 8A+/B I think.
Otherwise if you are willing to try it please be respectful of the nature and brush your tickmarks!! I recently found the line pasted with chalk. I don't want it to become like les beaux quartiers.."

Mile Heyden klettert 'La Cicatrice de l'Ohm'

Mile Heyden schreibt dazu: "Our great time in #bleau is over and I'm super happy to have done that amazing beautiful line"

Keenan Takahashi klettert 'The Island' (8B+)

Keenan Takahashi schreibt dazu: "Perhopes one day I'll find the words for The Island, but for now I'm just grateful to all the wonderful people who believed in me when I didn't, on this trip or any time in the life journey. More psyched than ever for what's to come! Killer"

Angie Scarth-Johnson aus Australien schreibt dazu: "The conditions haven't been the best at the Red and I definitely didn't believe in myself at times, but today I pushed to the anchors and sent Lucifer (34/8c+). I'm sooo happy to have done this awesome route."

Anna Liina Laitinen klettert 'Joe Blau' (8c+)

Der Fotograf François Lebeau schreibt dazu: "Oliana, Spain: This lady crusher Anna Liina Laitinen did this week Joe Blau (8c+). Why not. #strooong"

Der Fotograf François Lebeau schreibt dazu: "This guy, on the last day, accomplished his objective of his whole trip. Papichulo (9a+), is in the pocket. What an excellent example of perseverance and determination. Inspiring. Jon Cardwell 2 weeks ago at the base of his project."

Der Fotograf François Lebeau schreibt dazu: "Siurana, Spain: Heard Klemen Becan sent the rig! La Rambla had a lot of traffic this sesson. Another 9a+ in the pocket! Good work."

James Pearson klettert 'Le Voyage' (E10 7a) in Annot

James Pearson schreibt dazu: "Le Voyage" (E10 7a) ligne 5 etoiles
5 climbing days in Annot, that was a well worth discovery, after having to bail from a planned trip to Italy because of rain and snow (in May!). Annot was just the emergency plan... And when you don't expect anything, the best can happen.
The key was to find the local trad fighters, and we found them, and they told us the secrets. One big project in 'la chambre du roi',...' it goes, it's been tried by several people, but it's really scary'. Hmm mm... Interesting... Off we went, and James started his siege. "The line worked, indeed. 38 metres, first a 7a crack, a full rest, then a traverse on tiny stuffs, and an airy crack where you don't jam much. Just, just enough protection, and what, what a line. To have the chance to do the FA of such a huge route, in such a place, doesn't happen every day. I feel lucky, thankful to Lionel who told me the secret, and full of joy for having gone through the process of working, falling, and finally doing Le Voyage, E10 7a, in Annot.
I'll go to the extent of saying: this is the best new trad route I have ever done."

Die aktuelle Ausgabe
01 / 2023

Erscheinungsdatum 06.12.2022

Abo ab 13,50 €