Kletternews: Harte Routen, harte Boulder

Kletternews Highlights: Harte Routen, harte Boulder

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Von Jonas Winter über Eva Hammelmüller bis Moritz Welt und Mia Krampl: Hier gibt es die härtesten Begehungen von Bouldern und Routen der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Ende September gelang dem Italiener Stefano Ghisolfi (27) die Wiederholung von Change (9b+) in Flatanger. Die über 50 Meter lange Linie durch die steile Granit-Höhle in Norwegen war 2012 von Adam Ondra erstbegangen worden. Stefano erklärte nach dem Durchstieg: "Ich war noch nie so nah an meiner mentalen und physischen Grenze."

Stefano Ghisolfi
The North Face
Stefano Ghisolfi in Flatanger

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert The Power of Now (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH)

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert Stairway to Heaven (8B/+) am Gotthard (CH)

Erstbegehung: Moritz Welt (DE) klettert House of Cards (11) im Frankenjura

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert Camilotto Pellisier (8a+, 500m) in den Dolomiten (IT)

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Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension Total [9B] ☑️ 🥳 Last Tuesday I finally managed to climb the full line of the Ali Hulk Cave, a futuristic vision from one of my biggest inspirations in climbing, @dani_andrada_climb 🔥 During the extreme heat of the deep summer I spent most of my sessions crafting methods; most of which I changed multiple times afterwards, seemingly climbing in circles for months until I actually came up with a 130 move sequence which I felt confident with. The first half of the roof is very bouldery, where as the second half is more endurance oriented. The day it went down I had zero expectations to climb it 🤣 It was one of the last hot days we had, particularly humid, and not a lot of wind, I was tired from trying No Pain the day before, and had some nagging splits that needed tape, so I sat myself down at the start whimsically for a good old training burn, planning to fall at the first crux. Somehow, I managed to cross the roof, but was savagely pumped and nearly fell off getting into the rest position 🤨 From there I declared I would fall immediately 😂 I couldn’t shake the pump so I decided to just keep it movin, engaging myself in a brutal battle to get through the more physical Hulk section, and landing myself at the next rest with a near terminal pump in my entire body. I bailed again on the rest as my legs began to fail me in the kneebars, wanted to fall (honestly) as the pain in my feet was goin over the “threshold”, prayed I would maybe slip off in order to relieve the burn, yet somehow kept doing “one more move” (the mantra) until I made it through the Extension portion. This is where I got nervous. It was time not to punt 😅 I hung in the last shitty rest rapidly shaking either arm preparing for the past section of real resistance, and launched 🤪 Move by move I executed my beta, completely focused, only until the last move of the route. I rocked over my foot, locked of, assuming I would pitch, reached for the last jug, and BOOM. Summit 🤩 I couldn’t believe what happened, still can’t 🤩 One of my most memorable and rewarding ascents in my life 🙌🏻 Uncut coming 🔜 @mellowclimbing 🔥@adidasterrex @fiveten_official @petzl_official

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) am

Dave Graham (US) klettert Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9b) in Rodellar (ES)

Alizée Dufraisse (FR) klettert Fin de Ali extension total (8c+/9a) in Rodellar (ES)

Adam Ondra (CZ) klettert The Beginning (9a/+) in Arco (IT)

Florian Wientjes (DE) klettert New Base Line (Fb 8B+) und Wovenhand (Fb 8B)

Angus Kille (GB) klettert Mission impossible (E9 7a) in Ogwen Valley, Wales (GB)

Hazel Findlay (GB) klettert Mission Impossible (E9 7A)

Kim Marschner (DE) klettert Hazel Grace (Fb 8B+) am Gotthard Pass (CH)

Eva Hammelmüller (AT) klettert Gondor (8c) im Ötztal (AT)

Tom Bolger (GB) klettert Gancho perfecto (9a/+) in Margalef (ES)

Erstbegehung: Giani Clement (CH) klettert Stil vor Talent (FB 8C/+) im Magic Wood

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FA 'STIL VOR TALENT' FB 8C/+ . . "If you want to turn a vision into reality, you've to give 100% & never stop believing in your dream." . "The mind is the limit. As long as the mind can envision the fact that you can do something, you can do it, as long as you really believe 100%." . "We all have great inner power. The power is self-faith. There’s really an attitude to winning. You've to see yourself winning before you win. And you've to be hungry. You've to want to conquer." - Arnold Schwarzenegger . . Regarding the question from @w1nky___ How mentally hard was it? . I think the answer to the question is related to the personal attitude! I see here a parallel to the boulder "PRACTICE OF THE WILD" which I could climb in May/2019. Almost at the end of the boulder comes the crux, a dynamo; isolated moderately but very hard to link - arrived at this point you've to hide everything - if you want to succeed - there is only one way - there is no time to think - you've to execute with conviction - explosive & precise - as if you've still 100% energy left in the tank!🚀 It is quite possible that you fall at such a crux-move over & over again.🤯 This can become a mental burden. How to deal with the situation is in my opinion extremely exciting & at the same time very decisive for a successful ascent. I've often fallen at this point; at the last hard move of SVT; the dynamo to the good rail! The topics, mental attitude & visualization, with my views & approaches, I'll go into detail/report another time.✌️ Besides the climbing specific difficulties, SVT also had the mental aspect due to the height of the boulder & the uncomfortable terrain.🙈 Usually I don't put to much pressure on myself with my projects. I trust in my abilities & just really enjoy the progress/process. In summary the boulder was mentally very demanding & from a climbing point of view the biggest challenge so far. However I still didn't reach my limits in this respect. There are harder challenges waiting I guess! Can't wait for it!🤣🙄😍 . . Thx again @hanneskutza for the dope shots!💎🙏 . . . . . #FA #stilvortalent #magicwood #bouldering #frictionlabs #lacruxmagazin #27cragsofficial

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giani Clement (@gianiclimbs) am

Marco Müller (CH) klettert Paradise Lost (Fb 8B/+)

Alberto Gines Lopez (ES) klettert Circo ibérico (9a) in Cuenca (ES)

Madeleine Cope klettert The FInal Round (E9 6C) am Illam Rock (GB)

Sebastien Berthe & Nico Favresse klettern Odysee (8a+, 1400m) am Eiger

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The cherry on the top of the cake with "Odyssée" in a day on the Eiger north face ✅🎉 the trilogy was over and @nicofavresse and I still had time on our bikes... as a good and rare weather window was showing up on the Eiger north face, we rode our bikes to the base of this huge wall! The first crux, finding a dog sitter, behind us we launched ourself for a really long day on what's seems to be the hardest and longest route of the Eiger north face... we started climbing at 4am and 18h and 33 sustained pitches later we topped out with an interesting wind 😅we both led the crux pitch and swapped the lead for the other pitches! Once again, so cool to climb with nico who made such an impressive performance and had a no falls day despite so many tricky moves!!! Myself I had to give 2 tries on the first 7c+ and 3 tries on the last hard 29th pitch while my batteries were slowly shutting down 📉I was happy I could flash or onsight all the other pitches 🤗 this route is really beautiful and has the perfect style. So cool to switch from pulling on crimps in overhangs to alpine loosy runout sections, thumbs up to @rogerschaeli, @gietlsimon and @robertjasper_official for putting up such a route! Also really enjoyed the mood and the support on the wall with @symon9v @nilsfavre @damienlargeron @babsizangerl @jacopolarcher 🙏 📷from nico @patagoniaeurope @petzl_official @scarpa_de @lecomte.alpirando @escalpades @revolutionclimbingteam #actfortheplanet #0co2emissions

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Sébastien Berthe (@sebertheclimber) am

Melissa Le Neve (FR) klettert Mr Hyde (8c+) in Céüse (FR)

Kieran Forrest (GB) klettert Big Bang (9a) in The Orme, Wales (GB)

Ryuichi Murai klettert Anomaly (V13) am Mount Kagasaki (JP)

Will Bosi (GB) klettert Serenata (Fb 8C)

Chloé Caulier (BE) klettert Pura Vida (Fb 8A+/B) im Magic Wood (CH)

Jeremy Bonder (FR) klettert Satan y helvete bas (Fb 8B+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Dani Fuertes (ES) klettert Ali Hulk sit star extension total (9b) in Rodellar (ES)

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¡BOOM!💥 Proceso terminado!! Todo esfuerzo tiene su recompensa! El domingo por fin pude poner el punto y final a un proceso en el que llevaba trabajando desde junio. Era el objetivo final, el premio gordo, una “King Line”💎 creada por @dani_andrada_climb en el 2007 y endurecida por @jlpalao en su parte final hace un par de años, y aunque estos meses he estado haciendo sus diferentes variantes, siempre tuve en mente completar la línea entera, era mi objetivo, era mi sueño. Siempre había pensado que no tenía capacidad para alcanzar este nivel, y aunque seguramente será una vía “asequible” para su grado, realmente ha sido todo un reto para mi, en el cual he aprendido muchas cosas y me ha servido para darme cuenta de que si algo te motiva de verdad hay que ir a por ello, sin excusas, solo centrado en el objetivo, solo así se pueden lograr los grandes desafíos que puedas tener. “Ali Hulk sit star extension total” 9b 🔴🔝😱🚀💥 Que puedo decir, mil gracias a todos los que habéis estado todas estas sesiones en la cueva, y, aunque ayer no estuvierais todos, para mi es como si hubierais estado. @silborgo a ti que te voy a decir que no sepas, si no es por ti no hubiéramos ido, siempre te agradeceré todo el apoyo que siempre me das, esto como todo es en gran parte gracias a ti, love you 😍😘 @martadelprado 📸 @enriquegallardoclimb @citro_carlos_logrono_ @guillermolairla @marcosvidalf @vitorinn @dave_graham @alizee_dufraisse @edu.langas @jlpalao @trangoworld @climbingtechnology @esportivaaksa @julbo_eyewear @8cplus @bagoanegra @kymycoach @la_caverna_boulder_club #taketheotherway #theadventureiswhereyouare #8cplusnolimits #climbing #climbingismylife #rockclimbing #arrampicata #sportclimbing #outdoor #boulder

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dani Fuertes (@danibloc) am

Andreas Hanisch klettert Riverbed (FB 8B) in Magic Wood (CH)

𝐈𝐳𝐢𝐚𝐫 𝐌𝐚𝐫𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐞𝐳 (15 Jahre, ES) klettert White Zombies (8c) in Baltzola (ES)

Matt Fultz (US) klettert Hypnotized Minds (V16) in RMNP (US)

Loic Zehani (FR) klettert Sahara (9a+) in Gargantua (FR)

Erstbegehung: Symon Welfringer (FR) klettert Le tresor de Romain (8a+) am Grand Capucin (FR)

Erstbegehung: Aidan Roberts (GB) klettert Superpower (Fb 8C/+) in Coniston (GB)

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Superpower - First Ascent. The second of my top projects. In terms of pure difficulty and minimalism, this one takes the top spot and undoubtedly barges it’s way to my hardest climb to date whilst also aligning perfectly with my style. Steep, body tension, wide moves and small crimps and, from my experience, possibly one of the best of it’s style I’ve come across. Over the past 4 years or so I’ve tried it on and off, never really linking more than a couple of moves and never feeling close to linking the full sequence. I knew I was currently climbing well but, until I had a session dropping the last hard move, my confidence for this climb eluded me. The satisfaction and disbelief when standing atop of this massive boulder will not be one I’ll forget in a hurry. Dreading the topic of difficulty, I’ll admit I’m out of my depth with this one. Having never really tried much of the top end bouldering it’s hard to understand where this sits, though comparing to the ones which I have, it feels as though it sits a difficulty above any 8C I have tried. I’m not yet so willing to commit to this new territory with so little experience so, despite it’s slightly lame nature, will propose the annoying slash grade of 8C/+. Perhaps some more clarity will arise once I’ve developed a little more experience of cutting edge climbing. Funnily enough, photos provided yet again by @samm_pratt ;)

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Aidan Roberts (@aidan.roberts98) am

Nicolai Milburn (US) klettert Algorythm (5.14d) in in The Fins, Idaho (US)

Mejdi Schalck (FR) klettert Shortcut (9a) in La Balme (FR)

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Shortcut 9a ✅ . 📸@aurele_bremond

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Mejdi Schalck (@mejdi_schalck) am

Erstbegehung: Evan Hau (CA) klettert Bow Valley Challenge (9a)

Erstbegehung: Christof Rauch (AT) klettert Panzerfahrer sit (FB 8B)

Mia Krampl (SI) klettert Move by Move (Fb 8B) im Maltatal (AT)

Erstbegehung: Toshi Takeuchi (JP) klettert Pandemic (V13)

Erstbegehung: Seb Bouin (FR) klettert Le goût du sang (9a) und wiederholt La moustache qui fâche (9a+)

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First ascents - Précipice de Corbière ✔️ FA 8c/+ "challenge côte d'or" - Second go ✔️ FA 9a "le goût du sang" - Third go Last days were really busy. After the send of "la moustache qui fâche" 9a+, I drove up to the Vercors, on précipice de Corbière, for the annual @ebclimbing meeting . It was raining as hell, yet this crag is so much overhanging that it's possible to climb with a huge rain. There was two projects undone on that crag. I decided to checked them. First day I did the FA (if someone know about a send, let me know 😁) of "challenge côte d'or" 8c/+ on my second go (bolted by Benoit Martineau).A really nice line on pinches with dropknees and heels Second day I did the FA of a project on the left of the wall bolted by Corentin le Goff "le goût du sang". It was really dirty, and I had to spend a lot of time to clean it. It's an original line where you are more pumpt from the right leg than from the arms 😁. It's a huge 30 meters ramp. It was hard to find holds and betas, but I was lucky enough to did the FA on my third go 🤙. A huge fight, I was at the limit to fall few times. About the grade it's hard to have a clear mind because the line was really dirty, and it was hard to find betas. It feels like a 9a route. Yet, if the route is becoming cleaner, the difficulty could maybe feel around 8c+. Anyway, I want to propose the grade of 9a. And I will be happy to see other ascents, and any downgrade will be welcome 😁. Thank you @eb_climbing for all these moments. 📷 1 by @antoinemesnage 📷 2, 3, 4 by @lesfreresladevant on "challenge côte d'or" ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Premières ascensions - précipice de Corbière ✔️ FA 8c/+ "challenge côte d'or" - deuxième montée ✔️ FA 9a "le goût du sang" - troisième montée Les derniers jours ont été très chargés. Après l'enchaînement de "la moustache qui fâche" 9a+, je suis allé au précipice de Corbière pour le rassemblement annuel avec @eb_climbing Il restait deux projets sur cette falaise. J'ai donc décidé d'aller voir à quoi ça ressemblait 😁. "Le goût du sang" était vierge et plein de poussière, et j'ai passé pas mal de temps à nettoyer. Ma sensation du 9a pourrait être faussé à cause de cela.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Seb Bouin (@sebbouin) am

Erstbegehung: Sachi Amma (JP) klettert Ran-jyuku (8c+)

Jorge Diaz Rullo (ES) klettert Celedon (9a)...

... und White Zombie (8c) im Onsight

Thomas Lindinger (DE) klettert The world is on fire (FB 8B)

Alain Robert (FR) klettert DB Tower in Frankfurt (DE)

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