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KL Babsi Zangerl klettert Missing Link 8c+ Jacopo Larcher

Kletternews

Highlights: Fraunholz, Schab, Siegrist, Korherr

Inhalt von

Solveig Korherr klettert 8c, Jonathan Siegrist & Piotr Schab klettern 9b, Leon Fraunholz bouldert 8C – die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen.

Piotr Schab und Jonathan Siegrist klettern 9b, Solveig Korherr klettert 8c, Leon Fraunholz klettert einen harten Boulder nach dem anderen... in unseren Highlights gibt's die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Außerdem on Fire: Doro Karalus (DE) klettert Säbelzahn (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura, Jonas Winter (DE) klettert Off the Wagon (Fb 8B) im Tessin, Leon Fraunholz klettert Story of two Worlds (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH), Erstbegehung: Robert Leistner (DE) klettert Artist (Fb 8A) im Bahratal (DE), Alex Rohr (CH) klettert Powerplay (11-) im Frankenjura, Thomas Dauser klettert Wallstreet (11-), Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert God's own Stone (8b+) in der Red River Gorge (US), Lara Neumeier klettert Pandaemonium (8c/+) in Pinswang (AT), Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert Story of two Worlds (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH), Solveig Korherr klettert Nobody is perfect (8c) in Bürs (AT), Isabelle Faus (US) klettert noch unbenamste 8B von Jimmy Webb im Valle Bavona, Daniel Woods (US) klettert Rustica (Fb 8C) im Tessin...

Doro Karalus (DE) klettert 'Säbelzahn' (Fb 8B) im Frankenjura (DE)

Dimitri Vogt (CH) klettert 'Coup de Grace' (9a) im Val Bavona (CH)

KL Dimitri Vogt Coup de Grace 9a
Dimitri Vogt
Dimitri Vogt Coup de Grace 9a

Erstbegehung: Martin Keller (CH) klettert 'Ninja Skills low' (Fb 8C/8C+) im Tessin (CH)

Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert 'Lazarus' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Babsi Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Missing Link' (8c+) am Voralpsee (AT)

Erstbegehung: Manuel Brunn (DE) klettert 'Inkognito' (Fb 8B+) im Allgäu

Jonas Winter (DE) klettert 'Off the Wagon' (Fb 8B) im Tessin (CH)

Jonathan Siegrist (US) klettert 'La Planta de Shiva' (9b) in Villanueva del Rosario (ES)

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

The hardest part about climbing at your limit is balancing the emotions of wanting something with such overwhelming intensity and also somehow finding the strength to let it go and be free from the pressure. I found some kind of middle path today on ‘La Planta de Shiva’ 9b. It was an absolute battle to the death and I will never forget it. Thank you so much to @dustygene @neelyquinn @seth_lytton @escharas21 (@shainasavoy from afar!) and the amazing people here in Andalucia for the support and the laughs and the motivation! As with every emotional send, I leave a piece of my heart at the chains!! Photograph from the incredibly talented @javipec Venga! Onward! @arcteryx @lasportivana @metoliusclimbing #maximropes @climbonproducts @vertical.life.climbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jonathan Siegrist (@jonathansiegrist) am

Piotr Schab (PL) klettert 'Fight or Flight' (9b) in Oliana (ES)

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NO MORE FLIGHTS ️ Ever since I remember 9b was there on my life goals list. 2018 was planned to be the year to make the dream come true - I spent around 15 days trying “Fight or Flight” but in the end I wasn’t even able to climb it in two parts. The goal was faraway. This winter I decided to focus on my weakest points and together with my coaches we’ve set a serious training program. From the first day of this trip I felt a big difference in the route and a little later it turned out I can actually climb it until the last crux - the famous dyno. The dyno itself shot me down for a few days. Had to change the mindset from “trying” to “doing”. The pressure kicked in. The day came. I felt fresh and strong, motivated right enough. The conditions were prime, I was ready. The try was unique, I took risks and felt confident the whole way up, went all in at the dyno and suddenly it was over. So many years of training & dreaming closed in such a short period of time. Let’s live in the moment. Thank you @honngy , @lumartinez_93 , @jorgverhoeven, @patxiusobiaga_pucseries for sharing the passion for the project and @chris_sharma for giving us the opportunity to test ourselves. Thank you #MotionLab - Maciej Oczko and Magda Terlecka for commitment and help through all these years. Thank you my @julkastankiewicz & family for believing in me. Thank you Korona crew for motivation. Thank you @wojtekozakiewicz for the photo. • • • • @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @scarpa_pl @scarpaspa @iurapl @blackdiamond @sublimeclimbing @wingschalk #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion #climbing_lovers #climbing_worldwide #climbinglife #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #timetoclimb #climb #climber #wspinanie #wspinaczka #wspinaniepl #arrampicata #klettern #outdoorclimbing #escalada #escalade #rocks #rockclimbing #sportclimbing #doyouclimb #climbingrocks #iloooveit #grippedmagazine #rockandice #climberslife #climbingisbliss #training #wingschalk

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Piotr Schab (@piotr_schab) am

... und 'Pachamama' (9a+)

Leon Fraunholz klettert 'Story of two Worlds' (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH)

Alex Rohr (CH) klettert 'Powerplay' (11) im Frankenjura (DE)

Erstbegehung: Robert Leistner (DE) klettert 'Artist' (Fb 8A) im Bahratal (DE)

Flash: Robert Leistner klettert 'Vague Patratas' (Fb 8A) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Wallstreet' (11-) im Frankenjura (DE)

Lara Neumeier (DE) klettert 'Pandaemonium' (8c+) in Pinswang (AT)

Erstbegehung: Tom Randall & Pete Whittaker klettern 'Black Mamba' (5.14b) in Moab (US)

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First ascent of “Black Mamba” 5.14b done...! This one was a proper fighter and had us both wearing through a pair of boxer shorts to get the FA of a really unique 50m boulder-route hybrid. The years of exploring down in the caves, still presents surprises and nothing can be taken for granted! If you thought one pair of gloves was enough, think again. If you assumed that tissue paper padding was for puppies, you’re wrong. If you wondered what it’s like doing the Angry Pirate Finish at the end of 40m of 5.14 pump-fest, then you know where to head . I’ll leave you with a quote from @petewhittaker01 . . “On Tom’s go, I knew he was on the way to a successful ascent when I started to see he was losing his boxer shorts...” #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #tradclimbing #crackisback

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Tom Randall (@tompaulrandall) am

Erstbegehung: Toni Lamprecht (DE) klettert 'Tyler Durden' (Fb 8B/+)

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TYLER DURDEN 8b/8b+?

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anton Ator (@tonilamprecht71) am

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert 'Nobody is perfect' (8c) in Bürs (AT)

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Bürs -- what a magical place! I'm floating on cloud nine, so full of bubbly joy at the moment after managing a personal best yesterday “Nobody is Perfect” (8c). I surprised myself by sending it on my third day of working the route. I finished this great day with a send of „Have Fun“ (8a+) • I had the pleasure to try the 8c for the first time with the master of Bürs @thomasachermann. Special thanks for the inspiration and being the best coach over the last 10 years! Thanks as well to my dad @clklaus for always supporting me and giving me the sending catch (and always freezing your ass off in Bürs️). Last but not least to my best IG post inspiration and proofreader @enchaine.avec.jonshen ! • Here is a snap of a neighbouring route (Prinz Albert) from last year. @mantleclimbing @kollektivsports @scarpa_de

Ein von @ solveig_amelie geteilter Beitrag am

Cedric Lachat (CH) klettert 'Mollasson' (8c+/9a) in Mollans (FR)

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Red Feather' (Fb 8A+) in Val Bavona (CH)

Mari Augusta Salvesen (NO) klettert 'Ronny Medelsvensson' (8b) in Jøssingfjord (NO)

Erstbegehung: Thomas Collignon (FR) klettert 'Face Cachee' (Fb 8A+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

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What a good sunday!!!This morning all finally came together to put up Face cachée 8a+ FA. With my beta it feels hard but maybe easier for taller people,or harder because it suits me well... I'm waiting confirmation @addict_o_gres @niky_ceria @davidmason85 @jeromechaput @pascalgagneux @baptbincz @guittooo @olivier_lebreton and all bleausards i forgot!!! Video soon on vimeo tom3. Then in the afternoon @conanagathe send Montée divine 6c+/7a in a few tries. #blozone_fontainebleau #teamblozone #i_bbz #font #fontainebleau #project#sloper#bouldering #bouldering_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_photos_of_instagram #climbing_pictures #climbing #climbing_is_my_passion#never_stop_climbing#climbing_inspiration#climbing_lover#insta_climbing_everyday#cuvier

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Tom3 (@thomascollignon83) am

Solveig Korherr (DE) klettert 'God's own Stone' (8b+) in der Red River Gorge (US)

Daniel Woods (US) klettert 'Off the Wagon' (Fb 8B+) im Tessin

Alex Puccio (US) klettert 'Heritage' (Fb 8B+) im Val Bavona (CH)

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Last day best day!!! So psyched to have climbed “Heritage” V14/ 8B+ in Val Bavona Switzerland !!! I have been pretty out of shape for me and still have a lot of work to do to get back where I was, this is why I didn’t try Heritage for the first few weeks of my trip. I then decided to try it because it was always on my list of climbs I wanted to do and my friends were most psyched for this area. Well I definitely surprised myself when I was falling grabbing the hold at the lip on day 3! This happens 2 times this day with one try on the hold. The last move isn’t suppose to be that hard, but at my height you can’t use the normal left foot hold that makes the move not so bad. Instead I had to use a really high, and too high for me even, foot that made me be in this weird balled up position where then I had to punch to the last hold before the top out. The weather was highs of 17-23C / 62-73F everyday with sun and not much wind at all and the boulder sits down in a area that doesn’t really get air flow. After the “colder” day where I got really close I thought it would happen next day, but the weather got sooo hot and really humid! I was having trouble just staying on the holds and not greasing off. Finally on the last day It because a bit breezy and had some cloud coverage. The high was still at 17-18C/ 62-64F, But the breeze made it way less humid! For my warm up I decided to do the top half one time and then I sat for a few minutes to chill. I looked at the climb and had a special feeling. I didn’t want to overthink it or psych myself out, but I had a feeling where I knew it was time. For my second try I decided to go from the start and the magic happened! I was standing on top of the boulder!!! Thank you @westmountainmedia , @dawoods89 and @robinoleary for coming out all those days I didn’t send for support. I definitely got frustrated from time to time when the first few moves felt hard because of the humidity. @petzl_official @scarpana @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alex Puccio (@alex_puccio89) am

Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert 'Story of two Worlds' (Fb 8C) im Tessin (CH)

... und Ninja Skills (Fb 8B+)

Erstbegehung: Moritz Welt (DE) klettert 'Mutantensport' (Fb 8A+) und 'Royal Flush' (Fb 8B+) im Frankenjura (DE)

Isabelle Faus (US) klettert Fb 8B von Jimmy Webb ohne Namen im Valle Bavona

Christof Rauch (AT) klettert 'Normopath' (Fb 8B+) in Ziegelbrücke

... und weitere 8Bs

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The Easter weekend was a blast, went to the Frankenjura, Ötztal and my home area Zillertal. Climbed 9 problems 8A-8B. The highlights definitely were "Wirbeljet" (8B), Frankenjura "Säbelzahn" (8B), Frankenjura "Ninja Turtle" (8B post break), Ötztal "Sierra Madre stand" (8A+), Zillertal. Photo of "Ninja Turtle" by @julia_rechenmacher . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore #Tirol #Austria #Österreich #Ötztal #Zillertal #weekend #klettern #Frankenjura #Germany #Deutschland #climbing #mountains #boulder #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am

Hugo Parmentier (FR) klettert 'La fete de l'insignificance' (Fb 8B+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

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La fête de l'insignifiance 8b+ Great line open by @barefoot_charles and soon repeted by @nicopelorson I spent the last week on it. On the 4th day it went. I am super pleased to have done it before the heat and to have done probably my hardest boulder. It's a tricky and precise boulder with a powerfull top out. I believe the guys for the grade, they used to know pretty well their subject. I still think it's not a hard one and for sure not an extreme 3 mouvs problem. Thanks @tessrgt for the support and the camera Soon 3 days in Innsbruck and a small week in Ceüse. Hopefully the second project will be in good conditions. @le8assure @petzl_official @planetgrimpe @scarpafrance #moutainhardwear #le8assure #teampgofficiel #noplacetofar #accesstheinaccessible

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Hugo Parmentier (@hugoparmentier) am

Matt Fultz (US) klettert 'Flux for Life' (V13) in RMNP (US)

... und 'Bridge of Ashes' (V14/15)...

... und 'Paint it Black' (V15)

Chris Hanke klettert 'Omega Man' (Fb 8A+) im Frankenjura (DE)

Ethan Pringle (US) klettert 'Kintsugi' (V15) in Rocklands (ZA)

Jochen Perschmann (DE) klettert 'Blackout' (V13) in Joe's Valley (US)

Erstbegehung: Roland Hemetzberger klettert 'Delta' (8c+/ 9a) im Wilden Kaiser

Sarah Burmester 09.05.2019
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