Harte Boulder, schwere Routen: Kletternews mit Chiara Klostermann, Josh Levin, Giuliano Cameroni, Caroline Ciavaldini

Klettern extrem - aktuelle Spitzenleistungen Highlights: Chiara Klostermann, Josh Levin, Giuliano Cameroni, Caroline Ciavaldini

Harte Boulder, neue Routen, verrückte Aktionen – hier gibt's die Highlights der letzten Wochen aus der Kletter- und Boulder-Welt.

Sarah Burmester

20.04.2018

Hier gibt es den Überblick über die härtesten Züge der letzten Wochen.

Caroline Ciavaldini (FR) klettert 'The Quarryman' (E8 7a) in Wales (GB)

The groove pitch of the Quarryman In a few years, when I think of the day I did the Quarryman with James belaying me, I will remember this crazy moment where, hands pushing both sides of a glass like groove, I was trying to turn my body around. I nearly did it, realised my shoulder was so much behind my back that I wouldn’t be able to rotate any further, and let go of that hand… fell about 30cm, and stopped, my foot on one side, my ass on the other side… In a million tries, I would never be able to reproduce such a movement. It all went wrong, I should have fallen, but somehow, I didn’t. It took me a few seconds to realise where I was, and I heard James yelling “come on Caro, you can do it, keep on going”… and started moving back up. Trust your luck, It’ll happen. @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthface_climb @lasportivagram @wildcountry_official @gloryfy #climbing_pictures_of_instagram # groove #quarrywoman #neverstopexploring #pureclimbing #grimpeuses Thanks @rikyfelderer and La Sportiva dire this great picture!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Caro Ciavaldini James Pearson (@onceuponaclimb) am Apr 16, 2018 um 1:32 PDT

Alex Megos (DE) klettert Era Vella (8c+/9a) in Margalef (ES)

Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one would have been a good one for a flash attempt. Unfortunately I already had a very brief play on it in 2011, so at time way before I would have even considered giving such a hard route a flash try. Great route though! I see why it got so popular! @redbullgermany @patagonia_climb @dmm_wales @tenayaclimbing @sterlingrope @entreprisesclimbing @cafekraft_nuernberg @frictionlabs @fazabrushes @multicamper_adventure #stylefirst Pic @jan_novak_photography

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alexander Megos (@alexandermegos) am Apr 18, 2018 um 1:00 PDT

Christof Rauch (AT) knackt harte Linien im Allgäu

Two weeks ago my friend @markuskoecheler showed me some bouldering in the Allgäu. On the first day we checked out Hinterstein, where most of the hard boulders are established by Harald Röker, who also took the I managed to nap the second ascents of "Ragnaröck" (8A+/B) and "Mjolnir" (8A+/B). As well I climbed some classics like "Hinterm Bleaurizont gehts weiter" (7C+), "TNT" (7C+) from the photo and "Orca" (7C) flash. On the second day we had a look at the famous Parkplatzwand and I climbed two classic lines, "Horribus" (8A+) and "Monsterball" (8A+). After that my skin was wrecked and it got too warm to try something else but I will surely come back next season! . . . @scarpaspa @moonclimbing #Germany #Deutschland #Bayern #Austria #Österreich #Tirol #Allgäu #Zillertal #project #rock #boulder #klettern #climbing #mountains #spring #Hinterstein #scarpaspa #scarpaclimb #scarpa #moonclimbing #iloooveit #doyouboulder #climbing_lovers #escalade #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_worldwide #climbing_is_my_passion #climbinginspiration #climax_magazine

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Christof Rauch (@christof_rauch) am Apr 16, 2018 um 8:47 PDT

Pete Whittaker (GB) klettert 'Free Rider' (5.12+, 33SL) rope solo

Zwar hat Pete den Free Rider am El Capitan (Yosemite, Kalifornien, USA) bereits 2016 allein geklettert, hier gibt es nun aber das Video.

Chiara Klostermann (DE) klettert 'Odd Fellows' und...

Had a great start in the season with some really fast and unexpected ascents of Odd Fellows (8c), Lost&Found (8b+) and Schnullerarlarm (8b). What a start!! Thanks @juliansoehnlein for the great photos and @christoph_hanke for the belaying @scarpa_de @scarpaspa @ropeless @bergzeit @bealropes

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chiara Clostermann (@chiara_clostermann) am Apr 11, 2018 um 11:22 PDT

...'Lost Schnuller' (beide 8c) im Frankenjura (DE)

What a week!!! On Thursday I could climb "Lost Schuller (8c)". It's a combo created from @alexandermegos which combined the start and powerful Crux of Schnullerarlarm (8b) with the crimpy crux from Lost&Found (8b+). A little bit sad about that I'm done with this beautiful peace of Rock. Luckily there's still a lot to climb in the #frankenjura. Thanks @kathringruendler for another great climbingday Thanks @juliansoehnlein for the great photos @scarpa_de @bealropes @bealropes @ropeless @bergzeit

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Chiara Clostermann (@chiara_clostermann) am Apr 15, 2018 um 10:37 PDT

Erstbegehung von Olivier Lebreton (FR): 'Lazarus' (FB 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) und Nalle Hukkataival (FI) eröffnen 'Deal with the Devil' (Fb 8B), Gotthard (CH)

The "Teufelsstein proj" went down! We opened it yesterday with @nalle_hukkataival it's a pretty sick arete right before the Gotthard tunnel on a huge mythical bloc. "Deal with the devil" (hard 8b) Party time @scarpaspa @prana @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) am Apr 19, 2018 um 12:46 PDT

...

Romain Desgranges (FR) klettert 'Joyeux Leon' (Fb 8B) in La Balmaz (CH)

Steve McClure (GB) klettert 'Rainman' (9b) in Malham (GB)

Chad Greedy (US) klettert 'Second Life' (FB 8B) in Chironico (CH)

@tchadx taking down Second Life today!!last day psych! We’re in a airport hotel now, heading home in the am. Best trip ever ! Can’t wait for more !!!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von IsaBelle FAUS (@fausey) am Apr 14, 2018 um 2:39 PDT

Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'Bhai Bon' (FB 8B+) in Siurana (ES)

3rd ascent of Bhai Bon (8b+) put up by @dave_graham_ in 2003! @scarpaspa @prana @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Giuliano Cameroni (@giuliano_cameroni) am Apr 9, 2018 um 5:31 PDT

Katrin 'Kaddi' Lehmann klettert 'Todernst' (Fb 8A) im Basler Jura (CH)

Yesterday I climbed one of my bigger boulder goals . It's a link of two existing boulders. The first is called Tod 8a (death), which ends on the starthold of the second boulder called Ernst 7b+ (serious). . 'Todernst' (deathserious) is done. It's been quite a process. . I managed to do 'Tod' last year and was already thinking how it would be to climb further, but couldn't even imagine it. The Tod requires a lot of maximal power, it's quite fingery but also technical and there is no rest. I can't even chalk up my hands before climbing into the second boulder Ernst, where you straight away deal with some big powerful shoulder moves and not many feet. So suddenly you get really pumped... It can get serious, but it was much more fun. Thanks a lot to Mike Tscharner for the vision of those nice basler boulders and the cool unique names of many boulders he opened! #blackdiamond #liveclimbrepeat #todernst #todernstesbouldern #nextprojectiswaiting

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Kaddi Lehmann (@kaddilehmann) am Apr 11, 2018 um 11:08 PDT

Eliot Stephens (GB) klettert New Base Line (Fb 8B+) in Magic Wood(CH)

New Base Line (8B+), Magic Wood, Switzerland. • Climbing this iconic problem represents a lot to me. Most importantly it rewards my hard work, and belief that injuries are there to be overcome. I could have taken my foot off the gas at any point and invested my time and effort elsewhere. For better or worse, I chose to dig my heels and work a bit harder. • Heading to a snow covered forest after 6 months of injury I was doubtful of even climbing boulder problems, let alone this one. To find myself climbing it on the last day of our trip was a surprise, and a great way to part ways with Switzerland • @frictionlabs @scarpa_uk @organicclimbing #bouldering #climbing #choss

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Eliot Stephens (@eliotstephens) am Apr 16, 2018 um 7:58 PDT

Josh Levin (US) klettert 'Riverbed' (Fb 8B) in Magic Wood (CH)

Had an awesome week checking out Magic Wood for the first time with @mayafm3 & @thecircuitclimbing. Stoked to take down ‘Riverbed’ (8B/V13) on our last day! Thanks @randypuro & @bethrodden for the spot and encouragement, can’t wait for a return trip! Speed WC in Moscow up @mayafm3

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Josh Levin (@josh.levin) am Apr 18, 2018 um 5:29 PDT

Jan de Smit (BE) klettert 'Mécanique élémentaire' (Fb 8B) in Fontainebleau (FR)

Carlo Traversi (US) klettert 'L’Insoutenable Légereté d'être' (FB 8B) ...

... und 'Kheops assis' (FB 8B+) in Fontainebleau (FR)

...warum harte Züge manchmal nicht gelingen...

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