Von schweren Bouldern über geniale Sportklettereien bis zur Alpinen Trilogie: auch diesen Sommer sind allerorten harte Züge gefallen. Dabei: Laura Rogora, Lucia Dörffel, Charles Albert und Alexander Huber. Bon Apétit!
H ier gibt es die spannendsten Begehungen und Kletternews der letzten Wochen im Überblick.
Lucia Dörffel (DE) klettert Wallstreet (11-) im Frankenjura
Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert Anam Cara (Fb 8B+) in der SIlvretta (AT)
Laura Rogora (IT) klettert La Prophétie des grenouilles (9a) in Argentière (FR) an einem Tag
Siebe Vanhee (BE) & Nils Favre (CH) klettern Parzival (8b) im Alpsteingebirge (CH)
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* A hidden gem, lonely in the mountains at Alpstein - Parzival * Upon arrival last week in Switzerland I was desperately searching for a climbing partner. Thanks to @nilsfavre we spent two amazing days in Alpstein, Appenzell region. After only one day of checking out all the pitches, we both made a free ascent of ‘Parzival’. We knew about this multipitch of @michiwohlleben , who made the first free ascent in 2016. Thanks to Michi for all the info🙏🏻 At first sight I aimed to make a one-day ascent, but only after the first pitch I realised it wasn’t my day. I decided to let go of some self-pressure and we both just went to the summit switching leads and checking out the moves. Day two on the route, we both wanted to send the route so decided we could switch leads the two first pitches (7a+/b & 7b) and both lead pitch 3 (7c+), 4 (8a+/b, morphological) and 5 (7c). After some desperate climbing in the first three pitches, the crux pitch seemed even more desperate with little skin and 28°C on a south face in the sun! But somehow I knew I made a good chance. I managed to pass the crux right away and send the pitch in my first go. Now Nils still had to give it all. Because of some bad skin and a painful shoulder, Nils had to make several tries. But we had all day so no pressure. All the sudden he easily climbed trough the crux towards the anchor. What an amazing send day in great company, I’m really impressed we could both do it on our second climbing day in this crazy heat. Thanks Nils for the good vibes. Last minute we had some company of Remo Schläpfer of @lacruxmagazin who took some great pics and did some filming. Glad you made it for this double ascent Remo! @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @thenorthfaceit @thenorthfacefr @wildcountry_official @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk @klimclubhungariavzw #neverstopexploring #lasportiva #foryourmountain #weareclimbers #rockclimbing #climbing #climbingphotography #climbing #climbingphotography #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #escalar #escalada #grimper #escalade #klettern #sportclimbing #alpstein #swissclimbing #freeclimbing
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am Aug 23, 2020 um 10:51 PDT
Emma Twyford (GB) klettert Do you know where your children are? (E8 6C) in Pembroke (GB)
Drew Ruana (US) klettert Creature of the black Lagoon (V16) im Rocky Mountain National Park (US)
Evan Hau (CA) klettert Sacrifice (5.15a) im Coliseum in Canmore, Alberta (CA)
Elan Jonas McRae (CA) klettert Sacrifice (5.15a) im Coliseum in Canmore, Alberta (CA)
Erstbegehung: Aidan Roberts (GB) klettert Outliers (Fb 8C) im Lake District (GB)
Guido Unterwurzacher (DE) und Alexander Huber (DE) klettern Magellan (8c, 6SL) am Urlkopf, Lofer (AT)
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MAGELLAN • First Free Ascent of this incredible line together with my good old friend @alexander_huberbuam • This 6 pitch line was opened ground up by @alexander_huberbuam and @michaelmeisl back in 2005 and since then never was climbed. On the first visit we got pretty baked by the sun, but motivation was high to come back soon for the first free ascent. • Today everything was perfect, we started at 6 o’ clock in the morning to avoid the heat. All the pitches went down first try by both of us and both leading the incredible steep 8a roof. • To me this is by far one of the most beautiful climbs the Urlkopf has to offer. It’s challenging and pure enjoyment at the same time. At 6 pitches you will find only 6 bolts (besides the anchors) and the rest you can protect on gear. • It’s definetly not a Fast Food route, it’s more like a 6 course menu, for climbers who love the taste of adventure rolled up in an outstanding line on superb limestone. • 6c, 7c+, 8a, 7b+, 6b, 6b Thanks @alexander_huberbuam to invite me to this mission and for the well earned 🍻 afterwards. #firstascent #urlkopf #lofer #lofereralm #dreamline #dreamroute #goodvibes #goodfriends #dreamteam @petzl_austria @lasportivagram @malojaclothing @deuter @rocknrollmountainstore @alpinschulerocknroll.at
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Guido Unterwurzacher (@guido.unterwurzacher) am Aug 25, 2020 um 10:14 PDT
Harder better faster (FB 8C) in Fionnay (CH), Direktversion von Grahams Foundation’s Edge
Hazel Grace (Fb 8B+)
Erstbegehung: Theo Chappex (CH) klettert Thor & Dr Jones (Fb 8B+) am Sanetschpass (CH)
Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington klettert The Hammer and the Dance (5.11x, 700m) am Neptuak, Alberta (CA)
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert Quoi de Neuf (Fb 8B), Orsay (FR)
Marine Thevenet (FR) klettert Kingda Ka (Fb 8B) am Gotthard Pass (CH)
Jorge Diaz Rullo (ES) klettert Apocalipsis de la Gioconda (9a+) in Rodellar (ES)
Luca Rinaldi (IT) klettert Power of Now (Fb 8C) im Magic Wood (CH)
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POWER OF NOW [8C] 🇮🇹 (🇬🇧English verson in the comments and video coming to @mellowclimbing ) Dal primo momento in cui ho visto il video di Giul questa linea mi ha colpito, come anni fa aveva fatto Sky a Rocklands. Da non professionista non è stato facile riuscire a far combaciare forma fisica e mentale con delle condizioni decenti. Fin dall'inizio i singoli erano super ok, avevo una percentuale di realizzazione su di essi pari a 4 volte su 5, ma concatenarli è stato tutt'altro che facile, con il caldo la pelle si consuma in fretta, ogni 3 movimenti avresti bisogno di magnesite, e quando arrivi all'ultimo dinamico il tuo corpo è contratto e rilassarlo per questo ultimo grande movimento era fondamentale. Gli attimi prima del giro buono sono una figata, mentre cercavo di farmi seccare la pelle, nella mia mente passa un'immagine super nitidita, mi rivedo in falesia con Guido Querio, amico di sempre, e mentre mi sto legando lui allunga il pugnetto e mi dice: Man, NON PENSARE MENA!... Qualche secondo dopo mi trovo su, in punta, faccio fatica ad urlare, i denti stretti il pugno chiuso! TOP... Con me il #teamgaseria @emanuelegex @cristian_zenerino e il ritorno del puma @gabrimoroni calmo e gasato come sempre. Grazie a Giul, @fingerstroem e a tutti i ragazzi che mi hanno concesso l'uso dei 10 pad che servono per questa linea. Ora mi tocca rimodulare TheBAZUclimbingtraining, per i prossimi progetti, che sono tutt'altro che corti e di dita. Sponsor: @moonclimbing @madrockclimbing @madrockeurope @sublimeclimbing @digitclimbing • 𝗦𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗵𝗲 𝘁𝘂 𝘃𝘂𝗼𝗶 𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗲𝗻𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗶 𝗶𝗻 𝗺𝗼𝗱𝗼 𝘀𝘁𝗿𝘂𝘁𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗮𝘁𝗼 𝗽𝗲𝗿 𝗶 𝘁𝘂𝗼𝗶 𝗽𝗿𝗼𝗴𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗶 𝘀𝘂 𝗿𝗼𝗰𝗰𝗶𝗮, 𝗮𝗱𝗲𝗿𝗶𝘀𝗰𝗶 𝗮 𝗧𝗵𝗲𝗕𝗔𝗭𝗨, 𝗦𝗖𝗥𝗜𝗩𝗜𝗠𝗜 𝗜𝗡 𝗣𝗥𝗜𝗩𝗔𝗧𝗢 Ricorda: "La cosa più di difficile di un allenamento, è decidere di allenarsi" cit. • #bouldering #arrampicata #climbingtraining #climbing #mooncling #trainhardclimbharder #moonboard @rockandicemag @upclimbingmagazine @planetmountain @redbullitalia
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Luca Rinaldi (@luca.bazooka.rinaldi) am Aug 11, 2020 um 3:27 PDT
Anthony Gullsten (FI) klettert The Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger (NO)
Marcello Bombardi (IT) klettert The Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger (NO)
Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert The Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger (NO)...
... und Brunhilde low (9a)
Nico Favresse (BE) und Sebastien Berthé (BE) klettern die Alpine Trilogie aus End of silence (8b+, 350m), Silbergeier (8b+, 185 m) & Des Kaisers neue Kleider (8b+, 240m) – plus Headless Children (8b, 250m)
Brooke Raboutou (US) klettert Jade (V14) im Rocky Mountain National Park (US)
Erstbegehung: Jose Luis Palao (ES) klettert Santo Celedón (9a)
Jana Vincourkova (CZ) klettert Rustam direct (Fb 8B)
Erstbegehung: Alexej Rubtsov (RU) klettert Bonanza (Fb 8B+) in Djan Tugan (RU)
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One of the best rocks I've ever climbed! First ascent of mega project “Bonanza”. The height of the stone is more than 10 meters, and you need to be as confident and concentrated as possible. I'm not sure about the grade, maybe 8B +, but now it's quite hot here, so with good friction it can be a little easier. In any case, this is a super line that gave me great pleasure. I continue to explore the area, there are still a lot of interesting things!) @madrockclimbing @russiaclimbing #climbintokyo #climbingismypassion Один из лучших камней которые я когда-либо лазал! Наконец я смог его пролезть. Первопроход мега проекта “Bonanza”. Высота камня больше 10 метров, подходя к нему нужно быть максимально уверенным и сконцентрированным. На счет категории не уверен, возможно 8В+, но сейчас тут достаточно жарко, так что при хорошем трении может быть чуть легче. В любом случае это супер трасса, которая доставила мне огромное удовольствие. Продолжаю исследовать район, тут ещё очень много интересного!)
Ein Beitrag geteilt von Alexey Rubtsov (@alexey_rubtsov) am Jul 22, 2020 um 7:44 PDT
