Harte Züge: Wer hat was geklettert?

Kletternews Harte Züge: Wer hat was geklettert?

Von schweren Bouldern über geniale Sportklettereien bis zur Alpinen Trilogie: auch diesen Sommer sind allerorten harte Züge gefallen. Dabei: Laura Rogora, Lucia Dörffel, Charles Albert und Alexander Huber. Bon Apétit!

27.08.2020

Hier gibt es die spannendsten Begehungen und Kletternews der letzten Wochen im Überblick.

Lucia Dörffel (DE) klettert Wallstreet (11-) im Frankenjura

Leon Fraunholz (DE) klettert Anam Cara (Fb 8B+) in der SIlvretta (AT)

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About a month ago I was hiking around in Silvretta for a couple of days. After way to many weeks on plastic holds it felt refreshing to climb on real rock again. I could even crimp my way up “Anam Cara” [8b+] F.A by Bernd Zangerl in 2006. Nevertheless “Rombuk” [8a+] 🎥 was the highlight of the trip. A big amount of luck and good spot (thanks @flo.wientjes 👐) helped me to stand on top of this one, one of my all time favorites! @frictionlabs #frictionlabs #chalkupless #climbmore @lowa.outdoor #lowa #lovelowa

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Leon Fraunholz (@leon_fraunholz) am Aug 24, 2020 um 6:58 PDT

Laura Rogora (IT) klettert La Prophétie des grenouilles (9a) in Argentière (FR) an einem Tag

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First 9a in a day: "La Prophétie des grenouilles" 3rd go 💪💪 📷 @idamutto . . . #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #picoftheday #loveclimbing #climbforlife #escalade #escalada #grimper #klettern #montura #wildclimb #campcassin #italy #rome #bomber #instagood #instalike #instagram @climbskinspain @agripp_climbingholds @montura_official @wildclimb @fiammeoromoena @dao_sport

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Laura (@laura.rogora) am Aug 23, 2020 um 12:21 PDT

Siebe Vanhee (BE) & Nils Favre (CH) klettern Parzival (8b) im Alpsteingebirge (CH)

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* A hidden gem, lonely in the mountains at Alpstein - Parzival * Upon arrival last week in Switzerland I was desperately searching for a climbing partner. Thanks to @nilsfavre we spent two amazing days in Alpstein, Appenzell region. After only one day of checking out all the pitches, we both made a free ascent of ‘Parzival’. We knew about this multipitch of @michiwohlleben , who made the first free ascent in 2016. Thanks to Michi for all the info🙏🏻 At first sight I aimed to make a one-day ascent, but only after the first pitch I realised it wasn’t my day. I decided to let go of some self-pressure and we both just went to the summit switching leads and checking out the moves. Day two on the route, we both wanted to send the route so decided we could switch leads the two first pitches (7a+/b & 7b) and both lead pitch 3 (7c+), 4 (8a+/b, morphological) and 5 (7c). After some desperate climbing in the first three pitches, the crux pitch seemed even more desperate with little skin and 28°C on a south face in the sun! But somehow I knew I made a good chance. I managed to pass the crux right away and send the pitch in my first go. Now Nils still had to give it all. Because of some bad skin and a painful shoulder, Nils had to make several tries. But we had all day so no pressure. All the sudden he easily climbed trough the crux towards the anchor. What an amazing send day in great company, I’m really impressed we could both do it on our second climbing day in this crazy heat. Thanks Nils for the good vibes. Last minute we had some company of Remo Schläpfer of @lacruxmagazin who took some great pics and did some filming. Glad you made it for this double ascent Remo! @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @thenorthfaceuk @thenorthfacede @thenorthfaceit @thenorthfacefr @wildcountry_official @lasportivagram @avventuraoutdoor @climbskinspain @frigyesvandenauweele @sportpraktijk @klimclubhungariavzw #neverstopexploring #lasportiva #foryourmountain #weareclimbers #rockclimbing #climbing #climbingphotography #climbing #climbingphotography #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #escalar #escalada #grimper #escalade #klettern #sportclimbing #alpstein #swissclimbing #freeclimbing

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Siebe Vanhee - El Vikingo (@siebevanhee) am Aug 23, 2020 um 10:51 PDT

Emma Twyford (GB) klettert Do you know where your children are? (E8 6C) in Pembroke (GB)

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Do you know where your children are? - E8 6c Not my initial route plan but a good way to get my trad head back into gear for a short window of opportunity. As it turned out it was pretty much the only good conditions with humidity and rain kicking in. Such a good route, the right level of spice with some run out sections and superb technical climbing with big moves! Good to see @caffinspain tick off Nothing to Fear in the leap too! Nice to do some more adventurous trad over the hot weekend and tick off some classics. 📸 @ray_wood @patagonia_climb @patagoniaeurope @patagonia @scarpa_uk @dmm_wales @frictionlabs @seatosummitgear @climbskinspain @edelweiss_connection @hard.bar @v12_outdoor @boardroomclimb

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Emma Twyford (@emmatwyford) am Aug 10, 2020 um 10:43 PDT

Drew Ruana (US) klettert Creature of the black Lagoon (V16) im Rocky Mountain National Park (US)

Evan Hau (CA) klettert Sacrifice (5.15a) im Coliseum in Canmore, Alberta (CA)

Elan Jonas McRae (CA) klettert Sacrifice (5.15a) im Coliseum in Canmore, Alberta (CA)

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I sent sacrifice 5.15a today! So excited to redeem myself after injuring my knee on it last year. I couldn’t have done it if not for my amazing girlfriend @jessiclimbs coming up with me consistently and supporting me along the whole process. It was also amazing to have @bobspatterson belay me on the send. What a fight!! ****************************************************** Photo @serenapolt ****************************************************** @kimandaj2 @bouldersclimb #sent #colliseum #climbing #tryhard

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Elan Jonas McRae (@elanjm1) am Aug 13, 2020 um 4:13 PDT

Erstbegehung: Aidan Roberts (GB) klettert Outliers (Fb 8C) im Lake District (GB)

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Outliers ~ 8C ~ FA Throwing big numbers about is scary business. It’s so rare that I exceed my own expectations of what is possible for me but with plenty of psyche and motivation from @jackpalmieri on a cracking day out I was able to find myself ontop of this shouldery, finger intensive line. I’d had 2 sessions (admittedly very warm) not feeling close to either of the first 2 moves and at my limit on the rest of the crux sequence so it felt a little beyond me with my current levels of strength but pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t. Upon finishing this, I scampered Isla De Encanta~ 8B first try of the day. Having had a real battle to get up Outliers then finding Isla so comfortable it seemed as though there was more than a grade disparity between the 2 and with Isla being solid at the grade it seemed the logical progression for Outliers to take 8C. I’d be intrigued to see how others find the climb, it’ll be up on a video of my summer of climbing currently in the making. Finished of the day with a victory lap on Shallow Grove to conclude one of my better days :) Keen for more of these!

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Aidan Roberts (@aidan.roberts98) am Aug 26, 2020 um 10:15 PDT

Guido Unterwurzacher (DE) und Alexander Huber (DE) klettern Magellan (8c, 6SL) am Urlkopf, Lofer (AT)

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MAGELLAN • First Free Ascent of this incredible line together with my good old friend @alexander_huberbuam • This 6 pitch line was opened ground up by @alexander_huberbuam and @michaelmeisl back in 2005 and since then never was climbed. On the first visit we got pretty baked by the sun, but motivation was high to come back soon for the first free ascent. • Today everything was perfect, we started at 6 o’ clock in the morning to avoid the heat. All the pitches went down first try by both of us and both leading the incredible steep 8a roof. • To me this is by far one of the most beautiful climbs the Urlkopf has to offer. It’s challenging and pure enjoyment at the same time. At 6 pitches you will find only 6 bolts (besides the anchors) and the rest you can protect on gear. • It’s definetly not a Fast Food route, it’s more like a 6 course menu, for climbers who love the taste of adventure rolled up in an outstanding line on superb limestone. • 6c, 7c+, 8a, 7b+, 6b, 6b Thanks @alexander_huberbuam to invite me to this mission and for the well earned 🍻 afterwards. #firstascent #urlkopf #lofer #lofereralm #dreamline #dreamroute #goodvibes #goodfriends #dreamteam @petzl_austria @lasportivagram @malojaclothing @deuter @rocknrollmountainstore @alpinschulerocknroll.at

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Guido Unterwurzacher (@guido.unterwurzacher) am Aug 25, 2020 um 10:14 PDT

Erstbegehung: Charles Albert (FR) klettert Harder better faster (FB 8C) in Fionnay (CH), Direktversion von Grahams Foundation’s Edge

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Bel effort de @barefoot_charles qui ouvre «Harder better faster» à Fionnay -Ni plus ni moins que la directe du célèbre 8C de Dave Graham « Foundation edge »-. Le tout après une journée d’auto-stop, une nuit passée sous la pluie recroquevillé sous un caillou et des conditions d’humidité déplorable. 👏 #bouldering

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Morgan Boissenot (@morganboiss) am Aug 17, 2020 um 8:38 PDT

Clement Lechaptois (FR) klettert Hazel Grace (Fb 8B+)

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Hazel Grace (8b+) 💎✔ Stellar piece of rock FA'd by my friend @giulianocameroni some years ago, and then climbed by 3 other 🌍class climbers. Super stoked to have it in the bag as well now after some unlucky tries during the previous trips. Mhmm these days in high altitude are so good when the heat is hitting us the rest of the time! 📸@bould_herman 😘 • @arkose.climbing #bethbyarkose @snap.climbing #snapclimbing @unparallelup #unparallelUP @frictionlabs #chalkmatters @smartboard.climbing #trainsmarterclimbharder

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Clément Lechaptois (@clem_lechap) am Jul 28, 2020 um 11:06 PDT

Erstbegehung: Theo Chappex (CH) klettert Thor & Dr Jones (Fb 8B+) am Sanetschpass (CH)

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FA : Thor & Dr Jones [8b+] Enchaînement de ce vieux projet que j’avais délaissé quelque temps après la rupture d’une prise de pied dans le départ assis... La ligne est la directe du dévers de Nefertiti 👌... en départ bas 🤦‍♂️.. Le vrai départ assis reste donc encore en projet : il faudrait y ajouter deux mouvements durs pour rejoindre le départ actuel... avis aux motivés! Concernant la cotation, elle me semble juste, mais comme je suis en extension complète dans le crux, il est probable que quelqu’un avec un peu moins d’allonge la trouve un peu plus dur... et inversement.. L’avenir nous le dira! 📸 archive 2018 @jo_jomag . @eb_climbing #rockclimbing #grimpe #climbing_lovers #bouldering #chalkmatters #sanetsch #c_l_i_m_b #escalade #outdoors #valais #nefertiti #thoranddrjones

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Théo Chappex (@theochappex) am Aug 8, 2020 um 12:12 PDT

Erstbegehung: Brette Harrington klettert The Hammer and the Dance (5.11x, 700m) am Neptuak, Alberta (CA)

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Over the past few days @tony.mclane and I climbed a new route on the North Pillar of Neptuak. This line has been on my mind for the past few years and finally it came together! The Hammer and the Dance, 5.11x, 700m. We spent one night on the wall and one at the summit. The climbing was continuously demanding and steep till the very top. It was quite serious as we encountered many difficulties around mid 5.11 with lose rock and very little pro. The Hammer and the Dance seemed fitting given the circumstances of the pandemic and the fact that we hammered a fair number of beaks, then danced above them . I’ll be sure to share more info about the route soon. ❤️ @thenorthface @thenorthface_climb @lasportivana @trailbutter @goodtogofoods @grade7equipment @julboeyewearna @mammutna #alpineclimbing #firstascent #morainelake #canadianrockies #alpineclubofcanada

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brette Harrington (@bretteharrington) am Aug 7, 2020 um 11:59 PDT

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (NL) klettert Quoi de Neuf (Fb 8B), Orsay (FR)

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Quoi de neuf acte 2 (8B). Roofclimbing, not something Font is famous for but great in summer. Will come back to try the whole line 👊. 📷 and #teamsend with @donvanlaere (on his 'restday' 💪) . . . . @moonclimbing @delftsbleau @dutchclimbingteam #fiveten #crimptonite #climbskin #fontainebleau #orsay #roof #boulder #bloc #trainhardclimbhard #whatsnew #quoideneuf

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen (@michielnieuw) am Aug 3, 2020 um 1:04 PDT

Marine Thevenet (FR) klettert Kingda Ka (Fb 8B) am Gotthard Pass (CH)

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💥Kingda Ka [8B/V13] 💫FFA This one was on my dreaming list since I tried it last summer. I really enjoyed to figure out the best beta that could allow me to climb it 🧩 : the foot that works 🦶, the perfect place for the thumb👍, the right moment to switch the hands 👋; • Thanks @giuliano_cameroni for this gem and for your advices and @clem_lechap for your unconditional support. 🙏 • San Gottardo è bellissimo ! • @moonclimbing #trainhardclimbharder @unparallelup #unparallelup @snowleader74 #reblochteam

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Marine Thevenet (@bould_herman) am Aug 7, 2020 um 12:40 PDT

Jorge Diaz Rullo (ES) klettert Apocalipsis de la Gioconda (9a+) in Rodellar (ES)

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"Apocalipsis de la Gioconda" 9a+ ✔️🔝 Muy contento de tenerla en la lista! 📝 La última que pude hacer en Rodellar. Un ruton de casi 60m con primera de @jonatan_flor 💪 para la que propuso una graduación de 9b, pero con la repetición de @jlpalao y algunas otras opiniones ha quedado asentado en el 9a+ 🤔 Es difícil graduar algo así, además, ahora se ha convertido en una línea más "asequible" porque puedes subirte por cualquier otra vía a probar ciertas partes de esta, antes solo podías probar el final escalando todos los metros anteriores... ¡Y eso es una locura! 🤯 ¡Sea lo que sea lo importante es hacerlas! 💎👊 ¡Esto ha sido un chute de motivación! ¡Que ganas de más! ¡Que ganas de seguir apretando! 😆💥 ¡Gracias a todos con los que compartí días en Rodellar! 🤙 Hora de cambiar 🚐 📸 @ignacio_s_b durante la lucha hacia el 🔝 @e9clothing_official #E9clothing #E9team 👕👖 @scarpaspa #scarpaclimbing #Instic 👢👌 @indoorwall_leganes #Venaescalar 🧗 @climbskinspain #whyclimbskin 👐🏼💫 @petzl_official #petzlteam 🔩✨ @mushroompads #MG #Crashpads 🍄🙌

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Jorge Díaz-Rullo 😃 (@jorge.diazrullo) am Aug 26, 2020 um 11:50 PDT

Luca Rinaldi (IT) klettert Power of Now (Fb 8C) im Magic Wood (CH)

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POWER OF NOW [8C] 🇮🇹 (🇬🇧English verson in the comments and video coming to @mellowclimbing ) Dal primo momento in cui ho visto il video di Giul questa linea mi ha colpito, come anni fa aveva fatto Sky a Rocklands. Da non professionista non è stato facile riuscire a far combaciare forma fisica e mentale con delle condizioni decenti. Fin dall'inizio i singoli erano super ok, avevo una percentuale di realizzazione su di essi pari a 4 volte su 5, ma concatenarli è stato tutt'altro che facile, con il caldo la pelle si consuma in fretta, ogni 3 movimenti avresti bisogno di magnesite, e quando arrivi all'ultimo dinamico il tuo corpo è contratto e rilassarlo per questo ultimo grande movimento era fondamentale. Gli attimi prima del giro buono sono una figata, mentre cercavo di farmi seccare la pelle, nella mia mente passa un'immagine super nitidita, mi rivedo in falesia con Guido Querio, amico di sempre, e mentre mi sto legando lui allunga il pugnetto e mi dice: Man, NON PENSARE MENA!... Qualche secondo dopo mi trovo su, in punta, faccio fatica ad urlare, i denti stretti il pugno chiuso! TOP... Con me il #teamgaseria @emanuelegex @cristian_zenerino e il ritorno del puma @gabrimoroni calmo e gasato come sempre. Grazie a Giul, @fingerstroem e a tutti i ragazzi che mi hanno concesso l'uso dei 10 pad che servono per questa linea. Ora mi tocca rimodulare TheBAZUclimbingtraining, per i prossimi progetti, che sono tutt'altro che corti e di dita. Sponsor: @moonclimbing @madrockclimbing @madrockeurope @sublimeclimbing @digitclimbing • 𝗦𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗵𝗲 𝘁𝘂 𝘃𝘂𝗼𝗶 𝗮𝗹𝗹𝗲𝗻𝗮𝗿𝘁𝗶 𝗶𝗻 𝗺𝗼𝗱𝗼 𝘀𝘁𝗿𝘂𝘁𝘁𝘂𝗿𝗮𝘁𝗼 𝗽𝗲𝗿 𝗶 𝘁𝘂𝗼𝗶 𝗽𝗿𝗼𝗴𝗲𝘁𝘁𝗶 𝘀𝘂 𝗿𝗼𝗰𝗰𝗶𝗮, 𝗮𝗱𝗲𝗿𝗶𝘀𝗰𝗶 𝗮 𝗧𝗵𝗲𝗕𝗔𝗭𝗨, 𝗦𝗖𝗥𝗜𝗩𝗜𝗠𝗜 𝗜𝗡 𝗣𝗥𝗜𝗩𝗔𝗧𝗢 Ricorda: "La cosa più di difficile di un allenamento, è decidere di allenarsi" cit. • #bouldering #arrampicata #climbingtraining #climbing #mooncling #trainhardclimbharder #moonboard @rockandicemag @upclimbingmagazine @planetmountain @redbullitalia

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Luca Rinaldi (@luca.bazooka.rinaldi) am Aug 11, 2020 um 3:27 PDT

Anthony Gullsten (FI) klettert The Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger (NO)

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The Illusionist 9a ✔ Happy to tick off this bouldery route in this magnificent cave! FAd by none other than @adam.ondra Still so many great lines here that I need to get my hands on.. I'll have to start planning my next trip here soon 💭 Thanks for the 📸 @marimyrs ! @lasportivagram @kiipeilyareena @petzl_official @frictionlabs

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Anthony Gullsten (@andygullsten) am Aug 9, 2020 um 1:20 PDT

Marcello Bombardi (IT) klettert The Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger (NO)

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The last hard moves on "The illusionist" 9a ✓ · @centrosportivoesercito @esercitoitaliano @lasportivagram @grivel @xcultclimbing @nutbrushes #centrosportivoesercito #esercitoitaliano #lasportiva #weareclimbers #foryourmountain #nutbrushes #cleanyourline

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Marcello Bombardi (@marci_bomb) am Aug 12, 2020 um 5:40 PDT

Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert The Illusionist (9a) in Flatanger (NO)...

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ILLUSIONIST 🧙‍♂️ • It seems that this trip to Flatanger has begun in the same way my last has ended. Heavy rains. But the weather conditions inside this cave are so unpredictable and yesterday, after some proper swimming to get to the crag, a cold wind was blowing in, the dark wet spots were gone and I realized it would be a good chance to finally make some decent tries! After falling off the last upper crux, a long reachy move, some power was left and I could eventually tick this really cool bouldery 9a from @adam.ondra off the list! • This route is definitely not the first line that grabs one’s attention when visiting this amazing cave. It’s short, the shortest, lost in a sea of beautiful rock. But once you hang on it for the first time you can immediately understand it’s something really special! Crazy rock features, unique holds and unusual movements make this route a brilliant one!!! Sometimes it’s just the context that hides the real beauty of the things! Everything is relative! • 🎣 @_lucabana_ and 📸 @marci_bomb • #flatanger #hanshelleren #norway #climbing #falling #swimming #applejuice @camp1889 @scarpaspa @dfsportspecialist @rockexperienceofficial @ragnidilecco @asd_ragnidilecco @skillsrls

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) am Aug 5, 2020 um 12:19 PDT

... und Brunhilde low (9a)

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BRUNHILDE Low Start ⬇️ • Another great 9a from @adam.ondra . Should be the 2nd ascent, as far as I know. It climbs the first and hardest section of “Thor’s Hammer” instead of the jumar start into “Brunhilde”, a beautiful line crossing the left side of the inner cave, with some of the best rock and holds ever. Way more obvious, way harder, way more fun! • Last Sunday was definitely an unforgettable day for our team in the cave! @_lucabana_ crushed “Sledgehammer”, @marci_bomb “Thor’s Hammer” and “Odin’s eye”😳😳 • @camp1889 @scarpaspa @dfsportspecialist @rockexperienceofficial @ragnidilecco @asd_ragnidilecco @skillsrls

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Stefano Carnati (@teto_carnati) am Aug 18, 2020 um 11:44 PDT

Nico Favresse (BE) und Sebastien Berthé (BE) klettern die Alpine Trilogie aus End of silence (8b+, 350m), Silbergeier (8b+, 185 m) & Des Kaisers neue Kleider (8b+, 240m) – plus Headless Children (8b, 250m)

Brooke Raboutou (US) klettert Jade (V14) im Rocky Mountain National Park (US)

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Jade 8B+ (V14) and Two Ton Skeleton 8B (V13)🥳 • Jade has always been a “bucket list” climb for me, but one I thought I would always need to be stronger to do, or even try. The first day I was on it I was pleasantly surprised by how I felt on the climb, second day I fell on the V10 stand and yesterday I was able to send first try of the day and felt as though I was floating up the wall. Last try of the day I managed to send Two Ton Skeleton 8B (+/-) after watching @drewruana demolish Creature from the black Lagoon 8C+ (V16). It was an incredible day, one I will remember forever!🥰 • I feel so grateful to have this time to explore the park. I have learned so much in the past few months from pushing myself outdoors. I continue to grow as a climber and person every day I spend out there, realizing what I can accomplish when I put my mind to it. • Thanks for the photo and support @finn.stack 💓

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Brooke Raboutou (@brookeclimbs) am Aug 16, 2020 um 12:08 PDT

Erstbegehung: Jose Luis Palao (ES) klettert Santo Celedón (9a)

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Últimos días de este periplo Veraniego🕛🕧🕟🧗🏽‍♂️🏴‍☠️ En esta semana: A la 📝🔝🔴 "Santo Celedón" 9️⃣🅰️F.A "Santo escaqueo" 8️⃣C➕/9️⃣🅰️ "Invictus" 8️⃣C Habrá tiempo de más?🙏🏻 Es la hora de ir pensando🤔 en retomar cuentas pendientes 🤪💪🏻🙄 📸@alfonso_mrtnz ___________________________ @blackdiamond_climb @blackdiamond -------------------------------------------- @patxiusobiaga_pucseries @mushroompads @mutantfingers ___________________________ #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #rockclimbing #naturelovers #arrampicata #climbing #sportclimbing #klettern #climbinglife #climbing_is_my_passion #mountain #escalada #outdoorlife #climberlife #blackdiamond #climbingwithfriends #liveclimbrepeat

Ein Beitrag geteilt von JOSE LUIS PALAO "PRIMO" (@jlpalao) am Aug 23, 2020 um 11:54 PDT

Jana Vincourkova (CZ) klettert Rustam direct (Fb 8B)

Erstbegehung: Alexej Rubtsov (RU) klettert Bonanza (Fb 8B+) in Djan Tugan (RU)

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