KL Highlights Dezember 2018 Vol ii teaser Archiv Karalus

Aktuelle Kletter-Highlights aus aller Welt

Ausnahme-Kletterer: Robinson, Webb, Karalus, Schubert

Inhalt von

Wer hat was geklettert? Die Highlights der letzten Wochen im Überblick. Dabei: Paul Robinson, Jimmy Webb, Dorothea Karalus, Jakob Schubert und mehr!

Der österreichische Spitzenkletterer Jakob Schubert hat es wieder getan: Er kletterte eine Linie von Chris Sharma und wertete sie danach kurzerhand ab. So hatte er es mit Catalan Witness the Fitness gemacht, diesmal traf es El bon Combat, ursprünglich mit 9b/9b+ bewertet. Jakob denkt, die Route sei „hart 9a+“. Weitere Wiederholungen werden zeigen, ob und wo sich der Grad einpendeln wird.

Ebenfalls stark zeigen sich die Boulderer: Derzeit scheint sich die Weltspitze im texanischen Bouldergebiet Hueco Tanks die Griffe in die Hand zu geben. Paul Robinson konnte dort Karoshi erstbegehen, für das er V15, also 8C veranschlagt. Die starke Deutsche Dorothea Karalus hat in Hueco Dark Age (V11) klettern können – von dem sie beim letzten Versuch beim Ausstieg gefallen war und sich verletzt hatte.

Die Freundin von Jan Hojer, Molly Thompson Smith, hatte sich letzten Winter mehrere Ringbänder gerissen und scheint nun wieder in Form zu sein: Sie kletterte im katalonischen Santa Linya Fabelita (8c) und in Oliana Rollito Sharma Extension.

Der Italiener Stefano Ghisolfi konnte die von Alex Megos eröffnete Perfecto Mundo (9b+) in Margalef wiederholen, und dem Schweizer Giuliano Cameroni gelang eine Highend-Erstbegehung mit King Roger (Fb 8B). Doch es gab noch weitere Highlights in den ersten Dezember-Wochen – seht selbst.

Jakob Schubert klettert 'El bon Combat' (9b) in Cova de Ocell, Katalonien (ES)

Dorothea Karalus (DE) klettert 'Dark Age' (V11) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Erstbegehung: Giuliano Cameroni (CH) klettert 'King Roger' (Fb 8B)

Stefano Ghisolfi (IT) klettert 'Perfecto Mundo' (9b+)

Ben Spannuth (US) klettert 'Bone Tomahawk' (5.14d) in Utah (US)

Matty Hong (US) klettert 'Bone Tomahawk' (5.14d) in Utah (US)

Michaela Kiersch (US) klettert 'Phantom Limb', 'Tequila Sunrise' & 'Rumble in the Jungle' (alle V12) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Alex Megos (DE) klettert 'Alma Blanca' (V13) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Alex Megos (DE) klettert 'Esperanza' (V14) in Hueco Tanks, USA

Isabelle Faus (US) klettert 'Terre de Sienne' (V13) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Erstbegehung: Niky Ceria klettert 'The Education State' (?)

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Mission accomplished! First ascent of "The Education State"! Almost 3 years ago my good friend @marco__giorgio showed me this incredible orange project After 4 days of efforts I got quite close to complete it, but then the heat came! Few months after that day I started a long and never ending period of injuries which still keeps going. I came back last March, but I was out of the game to attempt this sequence so I spent my time doing other climbs. My medium finger was not strong enough for those small edges and I was re-starting climbing since only a couple of months. Things have improved during the last year and month after month I am getting into the bouldering mode again. When I planned to come back on this project I felt I was probably not ready enough. Fortunately I was wrong. The other day I finally managed to link it all the way from the bottom and to achieve one of the most interesting projects I found in the last years. I don't know how many times I have visualized this sequence in my mind. I guess my mind has climbed this problem over a million of times. I have been thinking about this project every day since February 2016 and, in some days, most of my thoughts was just about this! This mental aspect was very helpful: my mind perfectly remembered beta, body positions and angles after the last time back in 2016! @adidasterrex @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @flathold #bouldering #rockclimbing #climbing_pictures_of_instagram #climbing_is_my_passion #climber #boulder #climb #climbing #outdoors #adidasterrex

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Niccolò Ceria (@niky_ceria) am

Keenan Takahashi (US) klettert 'Kintsugi' (V15) in Red Rocks, Nevada (US)

Guillaume Glairon Mondet flasht 'Beyond life sit' (V12) in Joe's Valley (US)

Molly Thompson-Smith (GB) klettert 'Fabelita' in Santa Linya und Rollito Sharma Extension (beide 8c) in Oliana (ES)

Erstbegehung: Paul Robinson (US) klettert 'Karoshi' (V15) in Hueco Tanks (US)

Erstbegehung: Edu Marin (ES) klettert 'Valhalla' (9a+, 14SL) in China

Jerome Pouvreau (FR) klettert 'Supercrackinette' (9a+) in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FR)

Dave Graham (US) klettert 'Wanderlust' (Fb 8B) in Colorado (US)

Jimmy Webb (US) klettert 'Squoze' (V14)

Babsi Zangerl (AT) klettert 'Atonement (5.14b), Jacopo Larcher (IT) klettert 'Necessary Evil' (5.14c) in Virgin River Gorge (US)

Erstbegehung: Alexander Huber (DE) klettert 'Mauerläufer' (8b+, 6SL) an der Steinplatte

Erstbegehung: Pol Roca (ES) klettert 'Boulder Blaster' (Fb 8C) in Katalonien (ES)

Erstbegehung: Thomas Dauser (DE) klettert 'Il Gusto della Liberta' (9a) auf Sardinien (IT)

Erstbegehung: Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert ''Vortex' (8c+) in Gajum (IT)

Stefano Carnati (IT) klettert 'La ley Innata' (8c+) in Margalef (ES)

... und 'A Muerte' (9a) in Siurana, Katalonien (ES)

Annaliina Laitinen (FI) klettert 'Lucifer' (5.14c) in der Red River Gorge (US)

Erstbegehung: Nathaniel Coleman (US) klettert 'Lee Majors' (5.14c/d) in Celebrity Cave, Arizona (US)

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Lee Majors, 5.14+ ( @neilson.ben) The route breaks down into two or three sections: the intro snaps you into gear with a tensiony V10 followed by two hero jumps and a kneebar sequence to exit the roof. After an almost no hands kneebar, the route follows the lip of the cave with quite a few foot tricks; toe hook, heel hook, heel toe cam, la mae (is that how you spell it?), this sequence has it all. This takes you straight into the final boulder. I couldn't dream of a better sequence to guard the chains. A big left hand throw over a mini roof opens your body fully to the left with your feet carrying on behind you. Swinging your feet back on takes precision, and engaging a right drop knee takes some serious hamstring, but it's necessary in order to match the left hand. Loaded like a spring, launch for the clipping jug, and clip off the one hand deadhang (key beta). This final boulder probably clocks in at V9. It can be tough to grade a route, especially when you're a boulderer, and the route is kinda perfectly your style, and harder than anything else you've ever tried. In the end I was able to outrun the pump, and the 60 feet of climbing felt similar to executing a boulder problem. My understanding of route grades versus my own ability isn't good enough to grade this beauty. That being said, if you are planning to test yourself against this magnificent cave, be ready for some 5.14c or d effort. @prAna @petzl_official @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @gnarlynutrition

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Nathaniel Coleman (@nathaniel.coleman) am

Erstbegehung: Ines Papert (DE) & Luka Lindic (SI) klettern 'Sharks of Königssee' (8a, 280m) am Hohen Göll

Matilda Söderlund (SE) klettert 'Pure Imagination' (5.14c) in der Red River Gorge (US)

Erstbegehung: Dai Kojamada (JP) klettert Projekt (V13/14) in Ena (JP)

Dai Koyamada (JP): casual training

Sieh dir diesen Beitrag auf Instagram an

Back to my home gym.

Ein Beitrag geteilt von Dai Koyamada (@dai_koyamada) am

Zur Startseite
Mehr zum Thema Bouldern
Statement of Youth - frühe Sportkletterjahre in England
Camping im Magic Wood Avers Bouldergebiet
Bouldern im Elsaß
Jenya Kazbekova klettert Father & Son 8c im Frankenjura